tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80440289647074996552012-02-16T15:30:47.191-05:00Welcome to the Garden Supply blog! Please come back and visit it often as it is updated regularly with information regarding the wonderful world of Garden Supply.The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.comBlogger441100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-43787428121649436822009-05-27T21:08:00.001-04:002009-05-27T21:08:15.674-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Organic Gardening In The Backyard – Fun, Healthy, and Easier Than You May Think</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> C.J. Gustafson </font><br> Organic gardening, which is sometimes thought of as something out of the 60s hippie culture, has been steadily growing in popularity over the years. Not only can you find entire aisles of organics at the local supermarket, the number of specialty stores dedicated to organically grown foods has increased dramatically. Part of this popularity is due to an increasing understanding of the dangers associated with synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. Growing organically generally means gardening without these potentially dangerous chemicals. Many backyard gardeners are turning to organic methods as they realize how easy and effective organic growing can be.<BR><BR>Part of the reason chemical pesticides and fertilizers are so widely used is because they work well. In deciding to use organic methods in your backyard garden, you first will need to accept the fact that you will likely have more pest damage and lower yields than if you were employing chemicals. Many people are willing to make this trade off in return for the opportunity to harvest chemical-free foods for themselves and their families.<BR><BR>There are several different approaches and techniques used in organic gardening. You may find that you are using some of them already. If you have selected cultivars that are resistant to pests or drought, you are involved in one form of organic gardening. If you put out a scarecrow or bars of hand soap to keep animals away, this too is organic gardening. Compost is an organic fertilizer. Organic techniques are around in many gardens already. By utilizing them more and moving away from chemicals, you can improve the environment and lead a healthier lifestyle.<BR><BR>There are different levels of organic gardening and different reasons why people choose organic methods. Some do it because they do not want to harm any animals, even aphids or cutworms. So they try to develop a system where they can cohabitate peacefully, keeping insects and other animals out when possible and removing them or learning to live with them when other options don't work.<BR><BR>Some people are not opposed to pest control and extermination but they don't want to add any more chemicals to the environment or to the food that they eat. Others go organic as a means of getting back to a more historic, natural, and even challenging way of gardening. You will need to decide which methods match your personal philosophies and reasons for going organic.<BR><BR>Pest control and fertilization are two of the key areas to focus on with organic gardening. In addition to using native, resistant plants, mulching, and practicing crop rotation, the use of other natural methods of pest control and of compost and manure as fertilizer can go a long way toward creating a more organic garden.<BR><BR>Pest Control<BR><BR>There are many ways that backyard gardeners can control insects and other pests without the use of synthetic chemicals.<BR><BR>- Use mesh row covers to keep insects off of plants. They need to be removed from squashes, melons, cucumbers, peppers and other plants that require or benefit from pollinations during flowering. <BR>- Collars placed around young plants will help prevent damage by cutworms. <BR>- Allow natural predators such as ladybugs and wasps to assist you in your efforts by planting vegetation that will attract them to your garden and avoiding pesticides that harm them as well. <BR>- Screens, cold frames and fences can help keep some insects and animals such as rabbits out of the garden. <BR>- Aphids can be removed from plants with a strong stream of water. Hand removing insects such as potato beetles can be effective in small gardens. <BR>- Weed your garden and turn the soil regularly to help reduce the growth of insects that like to nest in certain plant debris. <BR>- Learn to identify the egg clusters of harmful insects and remove them immediately <BR>- Use homemade insecticides such as garlic spray or other harmless pest inhibitors. <BR>- Try using non-invasive methods of pest control including soap bars, cuttings of human hair, or an alert dog in the yard. These techniques may or may not be effective, but are worth a try before resorting to chemicals. <BR>- Some home pesticides such as those that use rhubarb or tobacco plants can be very dangerous to humans and other mammals. Use caution and be sure you know what you're getting into before you begin. <BR><BR>Organic Fertilizers<BR><BR>Of course you want your plants to grow quickly and produce large yields. However, chemical fertilizers are potentially harmful to those who eat the plants and to the environment, especially if applied too heavily and allowed to run off into water supplies and habitat areas. Using organic fertilizers can decrease the problems associated with chemicals.<BR><BR>Manure is a natural, effective fertilizer if used properly. Not only does it improve soil structure, it provides the nutrients plants need to develop. Manure that is allowed to age and decompose before use is most effective. Pasteurized manure is less likely to include active weed seed or harmful bacteria. Do not apply too heavily. <BR><BR>Create and maintain a compost pile to use as fertilizer. Not only does it incorporate the use of natural organic material such as leaves, lawn clippings and household waste such as potato peels and carrot stems, it also provides a free source of fertilizer and reduces the amount of waste that is hauled to landfills. <BR><BR>If you choose to use chemical fertilizers, use sparingly and choose a slow release variety that is less likely to leech into vulnerable areas. <BR><BR>Companion planting, which is the practice of putting together two plants that seem to benefit each other, has been offered as a means of enhancing organic gardening practices. It is thought that plants such as nicotina and marigolds are natural pest deterrents. However, there is no firm research to support this as yet. Still, many gardeners have reported success with this method.<BR><BR>Additionally, planting vegetables with prickly vines, such as watermelon or squashes around the perimeter of vulnerable plants may help keep out rabbits and other animals that don't like the scratchy vines.<BR><BR>These days, many gardeners are looking for ways to reduce the use of chemicals and rely on more natural and inexpensive means of providing food for their tale and backyard growing enjoyment. Organic gardening techniques provide fun and healthy options.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>C.J. Gustafson is an amateur gardener and a professional photographer, providing valuable tips and advice about <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/garden-accessories.htm" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/garden-accessories.htm</A> garden accessories and other <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com</A> vegetable gardening topics. She would rather lose a few ears of corn than go without wildlife in her garden.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-4378742812164943682?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-57136642864437096172009-04-27T18:52:00.001-04:002009-04-27T18:52:14.018-04:00<html> <head> <title>Pest Control for the Vegetable Garden</title> <meta name="keywords" content="vegetable,plants,pests,rabbits,around,cucumber,control,using,garden,Sprays,wildlife,"> <meta name="rating" content="general"> <meta name="robots" content="index,follow"> </head> <body> Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Pest Control for the Vegetable Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Karen Gross </font><br> One of the biggest challenges for vegetable gardeners is pest control. Anyone who has tried to keep a determined deer from eating the sweet corn knows how difficult it can be to deter animals, including insects, birds, rabbits and other wildlife from what, for them is a natural smorgasbord. From their perspective, there sit these wonderful veggies, all neat and weeded, almost as if you placed the plants there just for them. And so animals that we might otherwise enjoy can become a nuisance when it comes to the garden.<BR><BR>While avoiding wildlife is nearly impossible, chemical pesticides are often an effective means of deterring unwanted insects. However, many gardeners are uncomfortable using these harsh chemicals that can leak into water supplies and harm the environment. They also have concerns about using chemicals in the foods they feed their families. Here are some ideas for more organic pest control.<BR><BR>Crop Rotation<BR><BR>Practicing crop rotation every year in your vegetable garden and using companion plants will improve your soil and keep the pests under control. Most insects need time to become established in the soil. They may take two to three seasons to get their life cycle established. By practicing vegetable rotation and varying the type of plants grown in a particular area from year to year, you can avoid establishing plant specific types of garden pests. <BR><BR>Companion Planting<BR><BR>Certain varieties of garden plants are less attractive to pests. To deter rabbits, plant green onions amongst the lettuce plants. Plant several radish seeds in each hill of cucumber seeds to protect against the cucumber beetle. And when planted near each other, cucumbers will prevent raccoons from eating all the sweet corn, while the corn will reciprocate by preventing cucumber wilt.<BR><BR>Tomatoes like to be near chives, parsley, marigolds, garlic bulbs, nasturtiums, gooseberries, asparagus, and carrots. Tomatoes have a natural defense for pest control against the asparagus beetle and are also effective in keeping insects away from gooseberries. Carrots on the other hand are nearly every garden pest's friend. To control the carrot fly pest, plant onions, rosemary, or leeks nearby. Potatoes like to be planted near corn, horseradish, broccoli, cabbage and peas. Avoid planting by tomatoes, melon, and cucumbers.<BR><BR>Some vegetable gardeners plant pumpkins, squash, and cucumbers among the corn. The heavy growth and scratching of the vines and leaves helps keep rabbits, raccoons and other hungry critters at bay.<BR><BR>Tricks of the Trade<BR><BR>In addition to the planting methods described above, there are a number of non-pesticide options for organic pest control. Human or dog hair spread around the garden and hung from tree limbs acts as a good pest repellent, as do bars of soap hung from shepherds hooks or laid right in the soil. Deer do not like the smell of rotting eggs, so a mixture of 9 eggs with 2.5 gallons of water sprayed on ½ acre of crop will deter deer from entering the area, but the solution is diluted enough to avoid annoying humans.<BR><BR>Deer tend to be nervous and wary animals and can be scared off by annoying wind activated garden fixtures, plastic foil tape, scarecrows and whirligigs. Those that make noise, such squeaking, fluttering, or tinkling, work best. You may have to move these items around and rotate selection to keep the deer from getting use to them. Dogs are also a good source to keep watch over the garden and help scare off unwanted wildlife diners.<BR><BR>Tall fences (9 to 10 feet high) planted firmly in the ground are the best way to keep deer out of the vegetable garden. An inexpensive chicken-wire fence at least 24 inches high is often enough to keep those pesky rabbits out of your garden. Or a solution of cayenne pepper spray on the plants after a rain will sometimes deter rabbits from nibbling. Dried blood meal, which rabbits do not favor, can be sprinkled around when planting. The flavor will absorb though the root system of the vegetables, making them less appetizing. As an ongoing garden pest control, blood meal can be added to the soil every two weeks.<BR><BR>Live traps can be used for smaller rodents and rabbits. Bait the traps with a small amount of peanut butter, check them regularly, and transport any captured animals to another location immediately. Wear plastic gloves when handling live traps to prevent exposure to diseases carried by rodents and their parasites. Sticky insect traps and lures are another good pest control. Paint a thick piece of cardboard a bright color to attract the pest, and coat with a sticky substance such as Stick-em or Tanglefoot.<BR><BR>Electronic Pest Control<BR><BR>There are several electronic pest control devices available on the market as well, including electric fences, motion detecting water sprayers, and ultrasonic noisemakers that humans can't hear, but that garden pests find annoying. There are some units on the market that allow you to adjust the unit to the pest you are trying to drive away, without bothering the other critters you would like to have around.<BR><BR>Electric fencing can be installed around the perimeter of the yard. Some of these products claim to be strong enough to deter deer from entering the garden, but weak enough that they do not hurt family pets.<BR><BR>Moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not plants, which can make them a benefit to gardens, but as part of their natural activity, moles tunnel through the soil, causing damage to delicate plant roots. Battery or solar operated devices can be placed in the ground to help deter moles from burrowing in your garden. Place a few around the garden to prevent these pests from making paths in a new area.<BR><BR>Beneficial Bugs<BR><BR>Insects that prey upon garden pests are called beneficial insects. In nature these insects keep the garden pests under control. Encourage beneficial bugs by avoiding the use of commercial pesticides as these are usually non-discriminatory and will kill good and bad bugs alike. A small number of pests in the garden will encourage those beneficial bugs to stick around and multiply, making your work easier.<BR><BR>Ladybugs are natural enemies of aphids. Green lacewing in larvae stage feeds on thrips, mites, aphids, and various other insect eggs. Trichogramma wasps are effective against corn earworm, tomato hornworm, and loopers. The tiny wasps are also a parasite to many kinds of caterpillars.<BR><BR>Sprays and Soaps<BR><BR>There are many organic pest control sprays you can make at home, as well as purchasing less harmful insecticidal soaps. Many of the homemade sprays include ingredients such as garlic, onion, or cayenne pepper. A word of caution when using sprays intended to go directly on the plants. Never apply sprays in the heat of the afternoon sun. The water can heat up very quickly and cause brown spots to appear on the leaves.<BR><BR>Most gardeners have a connection with the earth and enjoy the wildlife and insects nature has provided…just not in the garden! For those who prefer to practice organic pest control, there are many options. They may not work as well as pesticides in some cases, but they are a lot less harmful and can even add fun and beauty to your garden.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Karen Gross is a professional gardener and design consultant. She provides valuable tips and advice about <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/seed-companies.htm" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/seed-companies.htm</A> seed companies , <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/container-gardening.htm" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/container-gardening.htm</A> container gardening and other <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com</A> vegetable gardening topics.</P> ...<br></p> </body> </html> <BR><br> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-5713664286443709617?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-89928651068597337282009-03-28T18:13:00.001-04:002009-03-28T18:13:14.226-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Rose Gardening Challenges</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Ken Austin </font><br> <P><BR>Rose gardening can be a challenging exercise but you don't have to be an expert to grow roses. Roses are grown successfully in gardens in nearly every different type of climate and environmental condition. Coming in a rainbow of colors and thousands of different modern-day varieties, roses offer a wonderful array of choices to followers of this beloved rose gardening pastime.<BR></P><P><BR>Rose gardening is special, though there are numerous recipes for cultivating the perfect rose garden, with even just a few of the basics such as sunshine, water and fertilizer, a rose garden can thrive in any climate. By adapting the following rose gardening tips to your specific needs, you can maintain a lush and lively rose garden.<BR></P><P><BR><B>Before you plant </B><BR><BR>Be sure your roses will be in an optimum location where they will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight per day, preferably morning sunshine.<BR></P><P><BR>Provide your roses with ample space to grow by digging a hole that is at least two-feet wide and two-feet deep. Add potting soil or organic compost for nutrients.<BR></P><P><BR>Keep roses moist by watering diligently for several weeks once you have planted them. <BR></P><P><BR><B>Help your rose garden to flourish</B> <BR><BR>Monitor the pH levels in the soil as roses generally prosper at a pH of about 6.5.<BR></P><P><BR>Fertilize in the spring when roses begin to leaf out and continue regularly until just before the arrival of winter frosts.<BR></P><P><BR>Remove dead flower heads occasionally to instigate new bloom growth.<BR><P></P><BR>Prune your roses at least once per year. With new plants, prune after the first blooming period is over. For older plants, pruning after the winter will help to begin rejuvenation and new growth. In colder climates you may also want to prune just after the first frosts to prevent harsh winter damage. <BR><P></P><P><BR>And always remember, roses love lots of water and proper drainage.<BR></P><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P><P>Ken Austin <BR><BR><A href="http://www.1stinroses.com" target=_blank>http://www.1stinroses.com</A> " target=_blank>Roses and Rose Gardening <BR><BR><A href="http://www.1stdiscountshopping.com" target=_blank>http://www.1stdiscountshopping.com</A> " target=_blank>Online Discount Shopping Guide <BR><BR></P><BR> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-8992865106859733728?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-88072089457597848292009-02-26T16:25:00.001-05:002009-02-26T16:25:13.669-05:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Decorating around the garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Melissa Cameron </font><br> <H1>Straight Talk On – Decorating Around the Garden</H1><BR><P>Do you live near a park? Most people do – there are so many around <BR>now. All levels of government recognize the value of a green <BR>environment. And, of course, if people know that government has provided <BR>them with lots of parks and trees, they'll get lots of votes. But the <BR>bottom line is – we have, in North America, some absolutely beautiful <BR>parks.</P><BR><P>Some of the most beautiful parks are natural areas, untouched by man, <BR>with lots of trees and plants flourishing in their natural environment. For example, New York's Central Park is a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, even though it's right in the middle of the city. In California, there's Redwood Park, with its statuesque redwood trees.In Vancouver, Canada, there's Stanley Park, another beautiful acreage of natural habitat, set right next to the city.</P><BR><P>And then there are the world-famous gardens, like Butchart Gardens in <BR>Victoria, British Columbia, the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, England, <BR>and the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in Cape Town. These displays of <BR>flowers literally take your breath away, their beauty is so stunning.</P><BR><P>But you don't have to go around the world to find a garden that takes <BR>your breath away. You can create your own park – your own place to go on <BR>sunny Saturday afternoons, complete with shady trees and cool summer <BR>breezes.You can create the best of parks right in your own backyard (or front yard, too, for that matter).</P><BR><P><B>Imagine your garden as a beautiful park</B></P><BR><P>Why do people go to parks? Most would probably say that they go <BR>to parks to relax. Think of the soothing feeling you get when you <BR>walk into a quiet forest, with their pine needle beds and their sweet <BR>scent of mature wood. Or perhaps the park you most like to visit is a <BR>garden of floral delights – roses, chrysanthemums, magnolias, and <BR>perhaps even orchids. These gardens are definitely places that whisk us <BR>away from the rush of your daily lives into what almost seems like <BR>another world. These are the gardens that are decked out in flowers, <BR>with <A href="http://www.decorweathervanes.com" target=_blank>http://www.decorweathervanes.com</A> " target=_blank>colorful garden decorations , statues, bridges, <A href="http://www.decorativewaterfountains.com/" target=_blank>http://www.decorativewaterfountains.com/</A> " target=_blank><B>fountains</B> <BR>– all the things that just call out to you saying, Come. Sit down. <BR>Relax.Breathe in the wonder of nature. Who could resist that call?</P><BR><P>But you don't need to go out to parks or gardens to find an <BR>environment so sweet. You only need to go as far as your own back <BR>yard.There's no reason why you can't create a garden of your own, just as good as any you'll find in your neighborhood, or in your tourist <BR>area. You can create your own garden. </P><BR><P>If you don't think you're creative enough, then there are lots of <BR>landscapers who can give you expert advice. They'll come and survey your <BR>yard, and present you with a number of plans that'll give you a <BR>wonderfully unique garden that'll make you the envy of the entire <BR>neighborhood – or maybe even the city. Landscapers are trained professionals. They can design and create a whole environment of beauty from your plain old yard. But whether you hire somebody, or do it yourself, the possibilities are endless. There are literally hundreds of ways you can beautify your garden. One unique way is with a <A href="http://www.decormailboxes.com" target=_blank>http://www.decormailboxes.com</A> " target=_blank>decorative mailbox and post in front of your home.</P><BR>You can create a garden as good as any park<BR><P>To come up with a wonderfully-landscaped garden, just sit back, close your eyes, and let your imagination run wild. Picture yourself sitting in your gazebo, the soft water of a gently-running fountain soothing your senses. You rise from your garden bench, and slowly wander over your little wooden bridge that crosses the babbling brook flowing through your garden. You stop here and there to admire the roses <BR>climbing the trellis, or smell the carnations crawling up the gazebo walls, perhaps picking one to take inside and put in a glass on your <BR>living-room table.</P><BR><P>What a wonderful feeling that is, isn't it? And this is something <BR>totally within your range of possibility. Think of all the things you could do to turn your yard into a park. You could put little statues at <BR>the entrance, beckoning everyone that passes by to stop and commune with <BR>nature a while. If you'd like to educate your friends as they enjoy your garden, you could put up garden signs, naming the more exotic plants and flowers you've brought in. Great conversation pieces!</P><BR><P>One of the more popular items in a creative garden these days is a <BR>pond. There are dozens of types of fish you can keep, depending on the <BR>size of the pond.You can fill it with lily pads, and floating <BR>plants. You can even put a fountain right in the pond. There's <BR>nothing like sitting in your yard with your eyes closed, listening to <BR>the soothing sound of gently-splashing water. It just seems to take you <BR>away from it all, doesn't it?</P><BR><P><B>Gardens can be functional, too</B></P><BR><P>The functional aspects of your garden can be esthetically-pleasing, <BR>too. You can now get decorative water sprinklers with a dragonfly or butterfly on top. And garden structures don't have to be big <BR>and ugly. You can get <A href="http://www.garden-n-storage-sheds.com/" target=_blank>http://www.garden-n-storage-sheds.com/</A> " target=_blank>garden sheds that look more like little guest houses, colorfully decorated with ivy and vines. Outside the shed, you could put a garden bench, inviting someone to sit and take a deep breath of fresh air, fueled by the fragrance of blooming flowers.</P><BR><P>You can do the same thing with your shade structures, too. You can <BR>strategically place canopies around your garden, creating little rest <BR>areas. Or you can get very creative with awnings, like attaching them to <BR>your gazebo, or a trellis, where they can be rolled out as the sun <BR>passes. Again, these are available in many attractive designs, <BR>fulfilling their function, while still providing a pleasant view. </P><BR><P>And how about a deck, to connect all that garden beauty to your <BR>house. A deck can also be very functional, while still remaining <BR>charming and stylish. And you can outfit your deck with some <BR>great-looking teak patio furniture, and protect yourself from the sun <BR>with a colorful awning that'll match your house. Again, it can look good <BR>and provide a purpose at the same time. </P><BR><P><B>What a picture you've painted</B></P><BR><P>That's quite a picture you've painted in your mind, isn't it? Well, <BR>it doesn't have to remain just a picture. You can turn it into reality <BR>any time you want. There are some wonderful <A href="http://www.decorweathervans.com/garden_gifts.html" target=_blank>http://www.decorweathervans.com/garden_gifts.html</A> " target=_blank>Garden Centers out there. There's sure to be one in your <BR>neighborhood. The people there are usually very knowledgeable and very <BR>helpful. They can guide you through all the phases of creating your own <BR>park in your own yard. They'll help you find the best garden <BR>decorations. They'll show you the best garden furniture. They'll help <BR>you choose the best garden structures.</P><BR><P>When you're developing your garden, take the time to let your <BR>creative juices flow. Come up with unique ideas that identify your <BR>garden with you. Duplicate your personality in your garden.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Melissa Cameron is a successful author<BR>providing moneysaving tips and common sense advice for consumers purchasing <BR><A href="http://www.only-area-rugs.com" target=_blank>http://www.only-area-rugs.com</A> " target=_blank>area rugs </B><BR>and <B><BR><A href="http://www.inflatable-boats-boat-accessories.com/inflatable-boats.html" target=_blank>http://www.inflatable-boats-boat-accessories.com/inflatable-boats.html</A> " <BR>target="_blankinflatable kayaks </B>. Her many articles offer valuable insight and straight talk on confusing topics.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-8807208945759784829?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-71052792391175897422008-12-29T07:09:00.000-05:002008-12-29T07:22:48.834-05:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Winter Gardening Fun</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Ben J. Mann </font><br> <H1>"Exchanging Plants, Seeds and Flowers for Winter Gardening Fun"</H1><BR>Exciting New Winter Garden Fun!<BR><BR>GardenHere turns grey cold weather months into exciting home <A href="http://www.gardenhere.com/" target=_blank>http://www.gardenhere.com/</A> gardening fun. While other gardening enthusiast are waiting for Spring plant and seed catalogs, GardenHere members are busy growing landscape and flower starts in their window sills to <BR>trade with other home gardeners around the country.<P></P><BR> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-7105279239117589742?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-11402966754914332192008-10-24T23:12:00.001-04:002008-10-24T23:12:34.385-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Planning a Vegetable Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Judy Williams </font><br> <P>It is important when you start to plan a garden, to know what you want the garden to do. For instance, if you are hoping to feed a family of four all year round, you will need to plan a garden that is approximately 100 square meters of space (not including walking paths) that produces more than once. If you live in a cold climate, you will not be able to grow year round. So asking yourself a few basic questions is a good way to start.</P><P>Where do you Live?</P><P>Climate can be broken down into three basic categories when planning a garden. Cold, temperate and tropical/sub-tropical. Of course there are many shades of climate in these categories and only you can determine exactly how where you live, fits into the mix.</P><P>What will grow Where?</P><P>Different plants have different requirements so take that into consideration when doing your vegetable garden planning.</P><P>Plants like beans, broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, cauliflower, turnips, onions and peas grow best at temperatures between 10-20C. These plants prefer a cooler time of the year to grow and will usually tolerate frost.</P><P>Vegetables like cabbage, carrots, radish, parsnip, leek, lettuce and celery have intermediate temperature requirements. They will grow best in temperatures between 15-25C and they can be fussy. Grow them out of season and they may run to seed without producing anything for your kitchen table.</P><P>Warm season vegetables grow best in temperatures above 20C and will die if exposed to frost. These include corn, capsicum, potato, tomato, eggplant and beans and all the vine crops. So make sure the majority of their growing season is in the warmer months.</P><P>To help with your planning, I've developed a range of sowing guides (<A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/sowing-guides.html" target=_blank>www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/sowing-guides.html</A> ). The guides indicate which months are the best for sowing popular vegetables and how many weeks growing you have before harvest.</P><P>A few other considerations...</P><P><UL><LI>Protect your plants from harsh winds. Cold winds will stunt growth, hot winds will dry the soil and harm the plants, strong winds will make them break. If you don't have a natural sunny protected corner in your garden, prepare a windbreak of garden lattice or slatted timber.<P></P><P></P><LI>Make sure your vegetable garden gets plenty of sunshine...at least 5 hours a day of direct sunlight.<P></P><P></P><LI>Make sure your taller plants don't block the sunlight for the smaller plants. Consider planting your garden rows in a north to south aspect so all rows receive equal amounts of sun during the day.<P></P><P></P><LI>If you are planning to plant successive crops, rotate where you plant what. Different plants take different things out of the garden soil. This will also reduce the potential for a particular type of pest or disease to take hold in your garden. Keep replenishing your compost and mulch!<P></P><P></P><LI>Water, water, water, water, water! Vegetables need water to grow and lots of it. A drip water system is best to give the plants a good, deep soaking and to discourage leaf fungus. This will encourage root growth. Do NOT let your garden bed dry out. Your no dig garden will have good drainage anyway, so keep it wet and top it up with mulch to keep the moisture in.<P></P><P></P><LI>Vegetable plants should grow quickly to produce well. Water, sunshine and fertilizer all have a role. If your plants aren't sprinting ahead, then they are lacking something and your results will be disappointing. Find out what it is and fix it.</LI></UL><P></P><P>By following these simple vegetable gardening tips, your no dig garden will be off to a flying start. Spend some time to work out what you will grow over the growing season that you have available to you. Then back time the weeks you will need to grow your seedling before planting.</P><P>Judy Williams (<A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com" target=_blank>http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com</A> " <A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com" target=_blank>http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com</A> ) splits her time between being an executive and an earth mother goddess.</P><P>No Dig Vegetable Gardens represents a clean, green way to grow your own food. The site covers all aspects of growing, cooking and preserving your harvest.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-1140296675491433219?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-86869123895290893132008-10-17T21:23:00.001-04:002008-10-17T21:23:16.974-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Rose Garden Tips</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Kathy Burns-Millyard </font><br> Rose Garden Tips <BR><BR>The rose garden ultimately is a get away for you and your thoughts any time of the day. You can plan and create a rose garden of your own that will take away the stress of your day with its beauty. The rose garden that you love and admire so much can be yours if you follow a few easy steps in planning and in raising your roses. <BR><BR>If you have never raised roses before, we have a few great tips and ideas lined up for your reference. One important thing to remember is that roses do love the sunshine. In the garden that is full sun areas only, you will have great success in growing roses. If you have a partially shaded area where you want to grow new rose bushes, you may want to consider moving your plants to where your roses will receive at least six hours of sun a day or more. <BR><BR>When first planting or transplanting a rose bush, water will be an important factor. You will need to water your roses at least once a week as your rose establishes itself. The soil that you plant your rose in does need to drain well, this is important. The rose bush will not thrive in the area moist all of the time. Refraining from planting your rose in an area that fills with puddles will aid in your successful rose gardening. <BR><BR>As your roses grow and change every year, you will need to pick off the dead head flowers. Picking off the flowers that are dead will bring new life to your bush. If you find black spots on the leaves of your rose bush, this will keep your plant from suffering and from any disease from spreading over the entire plant. Treating your plants at the first sign of Japanese beetles is going to save their luscious green leaves from these tiny creatures. <BR><BR>In the spring of the year, you will need to prune your rose bush. The blackened portions of your rose bush need pruned away to promote additional new growth over the entire plant. While pruning your plant in the spring season, pull weed starts so that your plant is not in competition for water or soil nutrients over the growing seasons. <BR><BR>As you plan your rose garden and begin placement, planting roses of the same color next to each other will enhance the over all look of the rose garden. Using too many flowers in one area though, can make the entire rose garden look more jumbled than a wave of color. <BR><BR>One last thing for you to think about when creating and planning a rose garden is to remember to test your soil. Soil testers are widely available and relatively inexpensive. When testing your soil, your pH level is going to be most important for success with roses. A pH level of 5.5 to 6.6 is the ultimate situation for raising a rose garden of your own. <BR><BR>This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - <A href="http://www.garden-source.com" target=_blank>http://www.garden-source.com</A> <A href="http://www.garden-source.com" target=_blank>http://www.garden-source.com</A> - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor. This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Need flower and garden products? Visit <A href="http://www.garden-source.com" target=_blank>http://www.garden-source.com</A> The Garden Source Network today!</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-8686912389529089313?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-31635066956761492472008-10-10T19:10:00.001-04:002008-10-10T19:10:16.936-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Natural Garden Pest Control</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Judy Williams </font><br> <P>No dig gardens essentially strive to be their own ecosystem. This is the sign of the best sort of garden, one that is in tune with itself without the need for pest or disease control. Starting with a weed free bed and clean compost, the garden should get off to a roaring start on this front.</P><P>That doesn't mean pests or disease won't ever be present, but it may be minimised under these conditions. Once your garden is underway, factors may change to alter the harmony in your garden. There is an astonishing range of things that can bring your garden plants under attack. To rectify problems, always go with the least toxic option for your garden's sake and for your sake, starting with these home recipes.</P><P>To discourage animals and some insects from eating your plants, combine one cup of water, 5 garlic cloves and 6 large hot peppers. Blend thoroughly in a blender, then strain into a spray bottle. Add another cup of water and spray away.</P><P>For red spider mites, mix 4 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in one gallon of water. Spray plants weekly until mites are gone, then monthly to stop them from returning.</P><P>Encourage native birds into you garden with bird houses, water baths and native flowering vegetation. They will eat many times their own weight in insects.</P><P>Cucumber peels on an ant route will make them go away.</P><P>For hardshell scale insects, mix 1/4 teaspoon of olive oil, 2 tablespoons baking soda and 1 tablespoon mild liquid soap in two gallons of water. Spray or wipe on plants once a week for 3 weeks or until gone.</P><P>Put beer in a shallow pan in the garden to trap snails and slugs overnight. Vinegar in a shallow pan will do the same thing.</P><P>Salt sprinkled on snails and slugs will kill them instantly. Go out in the evening with a flashlight and salt shaker and protect your plants!</P><P>Orange or grapefruit halves hollowed and turned upside down placed around the garden will also attract snails and slugs. Go out in the morning to shake salt on those hiding under the peel.</P><P>Put a whole garlic bulb through a garlic press and let it sit in a glass jar with several ounces of mineral oil. Mix a few spoonfuls with dishwashing liquid, hot pepper sauce and water in a spray bottle. This will discourage rabbits, gophers and woodchucks from entering your garden. It will also keep beetles off most vegetable plants.</P><P>Another important method for pest control in the garden is companion planting. Some examples include: Planting garlic to deter flying insects; while mint and sage near cabbage will repel the cabbage fly. There is more information on companion planting on my site <A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com." target=_blank>www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com.</A> </P><P>Judy Williams (<A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com" target=_blank>http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com</A> " <A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com" target=_blank>http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com</A> ) splits her time between being an executive and an earth mother goddess. No Dig Vegetable Gardens represents a clean, green way to grow your own food. The site covers all aspects of growing, cooking and preserving your harvest.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-3163506695676149247?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-32011928442472841442008-10-03T14:47:00.001-04:002008-10-03T14:47:04.715-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>No Dig Gardens - How to Build One</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Judy Williams </font><br> <P>The no dig garden is exactly what it describes...a fertile garden bed with no digging at all. It involves layering clean, organic materials that will literally compost around your plants as they grow.</P><P>The No Dig Garden is built on top of the ground, so you can build a garden anywhere. This makes it extremely attractive for those sites that have poor soil or are weed infested. It's also a great method of gardening for those that can't (or don't want to) dig a garden patch!</P><P>The site you choose for your garden must get at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. Drainage will be good because of the materials that will be used in making the garden.</P><P>If you are planting over lawn or weeds, mow them to ground level. If you are planting on a hard surface, put down some cushioning organic material first (like seaweed or leaves).</P><P>To build your no dig garden start with a layer of newspaper (no colour printing), at least 6mm (1/4 inch) thick. Surround the garden with some sort of border material. This can be bricks, logs, planks or rocks but should be at least 20-25CM high (8-10 inches) to contain the organic material within.</P><P>Lay down a layer of lucerne hay leaving no gaps, to a height of 10cm (about 4 inches). Layer some good organic fertilizer on top to a height of 20mm (1 inch). This can be just about any sort of good quality material like chicken, horse, cow or sheep manure.</P><P>Add another thick layer of straw to the garden 150mm (6 inches) and another layer of fertilizer and then top it off with a 100mm (4 inches) of compost.</P><P>Water the garden until it's soaking and let it settle for a few days before planting.</P><P>Seedlings do better than seeds in the no dig garden.</P><P>Here's what will happen. The seedlings will get a kick start in the rich, compost top soil. The fertilizer underneath will start the 'composting' of the lucerne hay and straw. The composting will generate heat and biological activity that will really kick along the seedling growth. The roots will further break down the straw and hay and it in turn will become solid enough to support the growing plants.</P><P>The newsprint is thick enough to discourage weed growth through the layers, but will deteriorate enough to allow earth worms to chew their way upwards.</P><P>Continue to layer mulch, straw and compost as the garden bed matures. Never dig this bed over, just layer more and more material as required. Rotate your crops and add fresh compost regularly.</P><P>Your garden bed will deliver consistent, spectacular results season after season.</P><P>Judy Williams (<A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com" target=_blank>http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com</A> " <A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com" target=_blank>http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com</A> ) splits her time between being a media executive and an earth mother goddess. No Dig Vegetable Gardens represents a clean, green way to grow your own food. The site covers all aspects of growing, cooking and preserving your harvest.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-3201192844247284144?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-71419449262208878962008-09-26T12:32:00.001-04:002008-09-26T12:32:08.159-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Building a No Dig Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Judy Williams </font><br> The no dig garden is exactly what it describes...a fertile garden bed with no digging at all. It involves layering clean, organic materials that will literally compost around your plants as they grow.<BR><BR>The No Dig Garden is built on top of the ground, so you can build a garden anywhere. This makes it extremely attractive for those sites that have poor soil or are weed infested. It's also a great method of gardening for those who can't (or don't want to) dig a <BR>garden patch! <BR><BR>The site you choose for your garden must get at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. Drainage will be good because of the materials that will be used in making the garden.<BR><BR>If you are planting over lawn or weeds, mow them to ground level. If you are planting on a hard surface, put down some cushioning organic material first (like seaweed or leaves).<BR><BR>To build your no dig garden start with a layer of newspaper (no colour printing), at least 6mm (1/4 inch) thick. Surround the garden with some sort of border material. This can be bricks, logs, planks or rocks but should be at least 20-25CM high (8-10 inches) <BR>to contain the organic material within. <BR><BR>Lay down a layer of lucerne hay leaving no gaps, to a height of 10cm (about 4 inches). Layer some good organic fertilizer on top to a height of 20mm (1 inch). This can be just about any sort of good quality material like chicken, horse, cow or sheep manure.<BR><BR>Add another thick layer of straw to the garden 150mm (6 inches) and another layer of fertilizer and then top it off with a 100mm (4 inches) of compost.<BR><BR>Water the garden until it's soaking and let it settle for a few days before planting.<BR><BR>Seedlings do better than seeds in the no dig garden.<BR><BR>Here's what will happen. The seedlings will get a kick start in the rich, compost top soil. The fertilizer underneath will start the 'composting' of the lucerne hay and straw. The composting will generate heat and biological activity that will really kick along the seedling growth. The roots will further break down the straw and hay and it in turn will become solid enough to support the growing plants.<BR><BR>The newsprint is thick enough to discourage weed growth through the layers, but will deteriorate enough to allow earth worms to chew their way upwards.<BR><BR>Continue to layer mulch, straw and compost as the garden bed matures. Never dig this bed over, just layer more and more material as required. Rotate your crops and add fresh compost regularly. <BR><BR>Your garden bed will deliver consistent, spectacular results season after season.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Judy Williams (<A href="http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com" target=_blank>www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com</A> ) is working hard to become a fulltime earth mother goddess. This site acts as a primer for all vegetable gardening aspects covering topics like how to build a garden, nurture seedlings, container gardening and composting.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-7141944926220887896?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-68728086246852925392008-09-19T07:50:00.001-04:002008-09-19T07:50:08.720-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>5 Perennials For Shade Gardens</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Lee Dobbins </font><br> We all know that flowers love sunshine, but did you realize that there are perennials that love the shade? <BR><BR>You can create a beautiful garden in the shade that can act as a cooling retreat on those hot summer days. By using perennials, your flowers will come up year after year for a lifetime of enjoyment. <BR><BR>Shade gardens offer much more than gardens that sit in the blazing sun all day. You can actually sit in them and enjoy them. Pull up a nice lounge chair or have a beautiful granite bench installed. Sit and read on a hot day, or just sip a drink and enjoy the birds and butterflies. <BR><BR>Like any other garden the best shade gardens will have taller plants in the back against the house or woods, medium growing plants in the middle and the shorter or ground cover plants on the inner edge. Since most perennials bloom for a short time, you 'll want to plant them so that you always have color in the garden. Stage the planting so that each area has a blooming plant at all times of the season. <BR><BR>Here's a list of some perennials that thrive in the shade:<BR><BR>Astibe - This plant comes in 3 "sizes" which grow to 20", 30" and 40" in a variety of colors. You can make a whole garden just with this 1 flower! It looks best planted in groups and has clumps of fluffy flower spikes. <BR>Foxglove - This is a great plant for the back row of the garden as it can grow to 5 feet tall. It comes in a variety of colors and has large spikes filled with bell shaped flowers. This beautiful flower is highly toxic if ingested so be careful with it around animals and small children.<BR>Lily Of The valley - This wonderfully fragrant plant has dainty white bell shaped flowers. It is great for a ground cover or the front of the garden as it grows to only about 6" tall. <BR>Lousiana Iris - This beautiful velvety purple black flower produces 4" blooms that last well into June. Plant in groups for best effect. Grows about 2 feet tall.<BR><BR>Virginia Blue Bells - This medium sized plant has lavender bell shaped clusters. It grows to about 2 feet in height and is very hardy and easy to grow despite it's fragile appearance. <BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Lee Dobbins is a contributing writer for <A href="http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com" target=_blank>http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com</A> Backyard Garden And Patio.com where you can find out more about building your dream garden and growing <A href="http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/garden-flowers.html" target=_blank>http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/garden-flowers.html</A> garden flowers </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-6872808624685292539?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-42239981865403808252008-09-12T07:38:00.002-04:002008-09-12T07:39:34.261-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Pruning and Training Trees and Shrubs</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Alan Jolliffe </font><br> PRUNING AND TRAINING GARDEN SHRUBS<BR><BR>"The Art and Science of Pruning"<BR><BR>By Alan Jolliffe<BR><BR>Pruning is the art of training plants. Pruning is not an end in itself. Pruning is a stimulus for desirable plant growth.<BR><BR>Introduction. <BR>Very few publications on pruning mention the relationship between pruning and training when explaining how to prune all types of plants, particularly of garden shrubs. This relationship is vital and must be well understood by gardeners, unfortunately it is not. Often pruning and training is not well practiced in both public and private gardens. However pruning, and therefore training, is one of those garden arts which must be practiced - and practice makes perfect.<BR><BR>Pruning is both an art and science, but there is now a lot more science than art and that is not a good thing. Pruning is becoming a lost art and it needs to be revived before it is lost altogether. The training of young plants is more important than the control of old plants or the regeneration of old plants. Young plants are very easily trained from the time they are planted out in the garden.<BR><BR>Of all the jobs in the garden nothing causes so much controversy and worry as does pruning.<BR><BR>Why do we prune?<BR>To grow large blooms for exhibition or fun using all the plant's vigor.<BR>To train the plant to best suit the position we planted it in.<BR>To remove the dead and diseased wood from the plant.<BR>To keep the plant in proportion for the position in which it is growing.<BR>To ensure maximum air and sunlight reach all parts of the plant.<BR>To enable the best features of the plant to be shown off in the garden.<BR><BR>Tools of the trade. <BR>The first priority is to make sure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. The basic tools are secateurs and a hand pruning saw. Loppers are alright but can be an unnecessary expense. Secateurs are used to cut branches up to 20mm in diameter after that you can use a saw without doing any harm to the branch. A hand saw can cut quite large diameter branches without difficulty. In fact far to many people use a chainsaw when they do not have to and a chainsaw is very dangerous in these situations. They are also slower by the time you get them started and make the cut, a handsaw is faster and better exercise!<BR><BR>Starting to prune. <BR>Always start pruning from the top down. One of the most common mistakes is to remove the weaker shoots at the bottom of the shrub thus creating a clear stem sometimes many centimeters off the ground. (These are then 'standard' shrubs). Starting at the top allows you to shape the plant more easily. You can see the plant and get a much better idea of the shrub when finished.<BR><BR>Look for what I call the 'inner shape'. On many shrubs it is possible to see an outline of foliage smaller than the existing shrub. Removal of the foliage back to this shape is then a relatively easy matter. It is the identification of the inner shape that allows you, the artist and gardener, to quickly and easily complete the pruning of any tree or shrub. You will know what you are aiming to achieve and that makes the task easier.<BR><BR>Once cut you cannot put the plant pieces back on the plant so don't cut back to far. It is just as easy to come back and take some more material off rather than be disappointed.<BR><BR>Hiding pruning cuts. <BR>One of the hardest things to do is to hide the pruning cut. Impossible? Well maybe. The visual impact of cuts can be lessened dramatically by changing the angle of the cut and the position of the cut. If possible always make the cut beside an existing side shoot so the end does not look like it has been cut off. Try to face the cuts upwards or towards the centre of the plant or towards the back of the border.<BR><BR>Pick those flowers. <BR>The easiest and most rewarding pruning anyone can do is to pick the flowers for indoor display or to give away. This way flowers can be appreciated in the garden and inside the house. Cutting flowers off at the correct pruning position will save additional pruning time later on.<BR><BR>Pruning times. <BR>Confusion often reins about the time to prune many plants. A simple rule is this; "Prune After Flowering". There is no need to remember which plants need pruning in which months. Pruning after flowering means that dead flowers are removed, unwanted fruit is not produced and new shoots are encouraged to grow. Spring flowering plants are a good example because it is easy to see how this is applied. Similarly with summer flowering plants. <BR><BR>With plants that are tender and likely to be frosted over winter just consider the dormant period of winter as a "short" period. Fuchsias, for example, flower in late summer, are frost tender in winter, and make growth in spring. During the dormant period of winter no growth takes place. Therefore to prune in spring does not effect the growth of the plant. The rule therefore still applies "prune after flowering".<BR><BR>Pruning after flowering allows the plant to take the longest possible time to lay down new shoots and buds for the next flowering season.<BR><BR>Summer pruning. <BR>Most of the training will occur in the summer not the winter. Summer pruning and training requires care and knowledge. Young vigorous growth can be removed to encourage branching at a lower height in the same season. It may be possible to prune the same shoots twice or even tree times during the summer. This encourages the plant to mature earlier and at a smaller size, producing flowers and fruit earlier in its life.<BR><BR>Root pruning. <BR>Root pruning is not practiced very much. It can be a very effective way to slow down growth of very vigorous plants. <BR><BR>No pruning. <BR>Not all plants require pruning and the same plant growing in different places may require different pruning to achieve the required garden shape. Always consider the individual, plant and its character and its position in the garden.<BR><BR>If you do not like pruning then choose plants that don't require pruning.<BR><BR>Final Advice<BR>Pruning is not a once a year job. People often regard pruning as a once a year activity. Don't be fooled by the fact that some other people use pruning as an excuse for a mid-winter or spring cleanup. Think of the plants - they are individuals too and require individual treatment.<BR><BR>The only way to become a competent pruner is to practice pruning, observe the results, correct your techniques and practice. Remember practice makes perfect.<BR><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Alan Jolliffe is a garden writer and lecturer. I am available to write special articles for you about Gardening and about New Zealand. I am a professional horticulturist, recreation manager,tourism advisor, teacher and local government manager. Contact <A href="mailto:jolliffe@slingshot.co.nz">jolliffe@slingshot.co.nz</A> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-4223998186540380825?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-80616214074242461912008-09-12T07:38:00.001-04:002008-09-12T07:38:09.374-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Pruning and Training Trees and Shrubs</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Alan Jolliffe </font><br> PRUNING AND TRAINING GARDEN SHRUBS<BR><BR>"The Art and Science of Pruning"<BR><BR>By Alan Jolliffe<BR><BR>Pruning is the art of training plants. Pruning is not an end in itself. Pruning is a stimulus for desirable plant growth.<BR><BR>Introduction. <BR>Very few publications on pruning mention the relationship between pruning and training when explaining how to prune all types of plants, particularly of garden shrubs. This relationship is vital and must be well understood by gardeners, unfortunately it is not. Often pruning and training is not well practiced in both public and private gardens. However pruning, and therefore training, is one of those garden arts which must be practiced - and practice makes perfect.<BR><BR>Pruning is both an art and science, but there is now a lot more science than art and that is not a good thing. Pruning is becoming a lost art and it needs to be revived before it is lost altogether. The training of young plants is more important than the control of old plants or the regeneration of old plants. Young plants are very easily trained from the time they are planted out in the garden.<BR><BR>Of all the jobs in the garden nothing causes so much controversy and worry as does pruning.<BR><BR>Why do we prune?<BR>To grow large blooms for exhibition or fun using all the plant's vigor.<BR>To train the plant to best suit the position we planted it in.<BR>To remove the dead and diseased wood from the plant.<BR>To keep the plant in proportion for the position in which it is growing.<BR>To ensure maximum air and sunlight reach all parts of the plant.<BR>To enable the best features of the plant to be shown off in the garden.<BR><BR>Tools of the trade. <BR>The first priority is to make sure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. The basic tools are secateurs and a hand pruning saw. Loppers are alright but can be an unnecessary expense. Secateurs are used to cut branches up to 20mm in diameter after that you can use a saw without doing any harm to the branch. A hand saw can cut quite large diameter branches without difficulty. In fact far to many people use a chainsaw when they do not have to and a chainsaw is very dangerous in these situations. They are also slower by the time you get them started and make the cut, a handsaw is faster and better exercise!<BR><BR>Starting to prune. <BR>Always start pruning from the top down. One of the most common mistakes is to remove the weaker shoots at the bottom of the shrub thus creating a clear stem sometimes many centimeters off the ground. (These are then 'standard' shrubs). Starting at the top allows you to shape the plant more easily. You can see the plant and get a much better idea of the shrub when finished.<BR><BR>Look for what I call the 'inner shape'. On many shrubs it is possible to see an outline of foliage smaller than the existing shrub. Removal of the foliage back to this shape is then a relatively easy matter. It is the identification of the inner shape that allows you, the artist and gardener, to quickly and easily complete the pruning of any tree or shrub. You will know what you are aiming to achieve and that makes the task easier.<BR><BR>Once cut you cannot put the plant pieces back on the plant so don't cut back to far. It is just as easy to come back and take some more material off rather than be disappointed.<BR><BR>Hiding pruning cuts. <BR>One of the hardest things to do is to hide the pruning cut. Impossible? Well maybe. The visual impact of cuts can be lessened dramatically by changing the angle of the cut and the position of the cut. If possible always make the cut beside an existing side shoot so the end does not look like it has been cut off. Try to face the cuts upwards or towards the centre of the plant or towards the back of the border.<BR><BR>Pick those flowers. <BR>The easiest and most rewarding pruning anyone can do is to pick the flowers for indoor display or to give away. This way flowers can be appreciated in the garden and inside the house. Cutting flowers off at the correct pruning position will save additional pruning time later on.<BR><BR>Pruning times. <BR>Confusion often reins about the time to prune many plants. A simple rule is this; "Prune After Flowering". There is no need to remember which plants need pruning in which months. Pruning after flowering means that dead flowers are removed, unwanted fruit is not produced and new shoots are encouraged to grow. Spring flowering plants are a good example because it is easy to see how this is applied. Similarly with summer flowering plants. <BR><BR>With plants that are tender and likely to be frosted over winter just consider the dormant period of winter as a "short" period. Fuchsias, for example, flower in late summer, are frost tender in winter, and make growth in spring. During the dormant period of winter no growth takes place. Therefore to prune in spring does not effect the growth of the plant. The rule therefore still applies "prune after flowering".<BR><BR>Pruning after flowering allows the plant to take the longest possible time to lay down new shoots and buds for the next flowering season.<BR><BR>Summer pruning. <BR>Most of the training will occur in the summer not the winter. Summer pruning and training requires care and knowledge. Young vigorous growth can be removed to encourage branching at a lower height in the same season. It may be possible to prune the same shoots twice or even tree times during the summer. This encourages the plant to mature earlier and at a smaller size, producing flowers and fruit earlier in its life.<BR><BR>Root pruning. <BR>Root pruning is not practiced very much. It can be a very effective way to slow down growth of very vigorous plants. <BR><BR>No pruning. <BR>Not all plants require pruning and the same plant growing in different places may require different pruning to achieve the required garden shape. Always consider the individual, plant and its character and its position in the garden.<BR><BR>If you do not like pruning then choose plants that don't require pruning.<BR><BR>Final Advice<BR>Pruning is not a once a year job. People often regard pruning as a once a year activity. Don't be fooled by the fact that some other people use pruning as an excuse for a mid-winter or spring cleanup. Think of the plants - they are individuals too and require individual treatment.<BR><BR>The only way to become a competent pruner is to practice pruning, observe the results, correct your techniques and practice. Remember practice makes perfect.<BR><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Alan Jolliffe is a garden writer and lecturer. I am available to write special articles for you about Gardening and about New Zealand. I am a professional horticulturist, recreation manager,tourism advisor, teacher and local government manager. Contact <A href="mailto:jolliffe@slingshot.co.nz">jolliffe@slingshot.co.nz</A> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-8061621407424246191?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-13050492224129251582008-09-05T06:46:00.002-04:002008-09-05T06:48:08.116-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>How To Choose Water Garden Plants</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Brett Fogle </font><br> <P>So. The water garden bug has bitten. You've dug and leveled and sweated and said words you hope that no one else has heard. Now it's time for the fun part – picking out your water garden plants!</P><P>Plant varieties within these four categories are what you need to eyeball: deep-water, marginals, oxygenators, and floaters. (If you think these words are big and weird, just thank your stars we're not talking medicine.)</P><P>After you've diligently planted your babies in plastic tubs, pans, or clay pots, packing the fertilizer- and chemical-free soil down tightly, load the container down with pea gravel to keep the soil from floating away. (Don't ask why this works, but it does.) Plunk your prize into the water at the appropriate depth (You'll read about that in just a minute, so hang on to your hat.) and you're on your way!</P><P>Plant-dunking should be done during the growing season. Wait four or five weeks for the water plants to do their thing before you add your fish. If you just can't hold your horses, er, your fish, for that long, you can jump the gun a couple of weeks, but the idea is to let the plants first get established.</P><P>When picking your plants, you'll no doubt be wowed by water lilies of the tropical persuasion. These aquatic wonders lord it over their hardier cousins with knock-out fragrance, big blooms day or night – depending on the variety – and a habit of blooming their little hearts out nearly every day during the growing season. They love their warmth, though, so unless you live in a year-round, warm-weather climate (in which case, you are used to being hated and has absolutely nothing to do with this article), be prepared to hasten them into a greenhouse or at least muster up enough moolah to buy them some "grow" lights to tough it out through the winter. They will definitely bite the dust at freezing temperatures, but give them night-time temps of at least 65F and daytime temps of 75F or warmer, and your love affair with tropicals will only grow that much more torrid.</P><P>Hardy water lilies, while not the showboaters that tropicals are, are . . . well, hardier. Their big advantage is that they can stay in the water year 'round unless it freezes so deeply the rootstock is affected. And being the tough guys they are, you can plant these puppies deeper than the tropicals, some living it up in depths of 8 to 10 feet.</P><P>Both hardy and tropical water lilies are real sun worshippers. At least 5 to 10 hours a day is what it takes, along with regular fertilization, to keep these plant pals happy.</P><P>Everybody and their brother with a water garden wants a lotus plant. (Sisters, too, no doubt.) These water-lily relatives come in hardy and not-so-hardy strains, so make sure you know what you're buying. Much bigger than water lilies, lotus have huge, famously splendid blooms that not only will knock your socks off, but make you forget you have feet altogether. Their leaves and seed pods are so breathtaking, they're a favorite in costly cut-flower arrangements. Big, bold, and beautiful, with water-depth needs of 2-3 feet, these shouters are really better off in big ponds that get plenty of sun.</P><P>Marginals (sometimes called "bog" plants by those less high-falutin') are grass-like plants that strut their stuff in shallow areas no deeper than 6" that border the water garden. They also do well in mud. Cattail, bamboo, rush, papyrus, and many other plants fall into the family of marginals and grow best with a minimum of at least three hours of jolly old Sol.</P><P>Some plants are there but not seen, working stoically under water and without fanfare to fight algae, oxygenate the water, and provide food for fish. (In lieu of these plants, if your pond is small, you can fake it fairly adequately with an aquarium pump.) Easy on the wallet, varieties of these plants can be bought in bunches and like their soil sandy and/or gravelly. Like hardy water lilies, they, too, will warrior it through the winter.</P><P>Water hyacinths have become a recent rage, especially for the lazy among us. No soil is required for these beauties. Toss them in the water and they're "planted." A water hyacinth ain't just another pretty face, though; these plants do their part in the war against algae and blanket weeds by keeping sunlight scarce on the water's surface. But one note of caution: This plant may take over the world if allowed. It's invasive as all get out, so keep it under control or you (and your neighbors) may wish you'd never laid eyes on it.</P><P>A water garden isn't a garden without plants. Take your time, know your climate, and choose wisely. Your rewards will be great in return.</P><P>**************************************************<BR>Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several other pond-related websites including <A href="http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com" target=_blank>http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com</A> " MacArthurWatergardens.com , and <A href="http://www.pond-filters-online.com" target=_blank>http://www.pond-filters-online.com</A> " Pond-Filters-Online.com .</P><P>He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE 'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!<BR>**************************************************</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-1305049222412925158?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-54900535837345883172008-09-05T06:46:00.001-04:002008-09-05T06:46:11.211-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>How To Choose Water Garden Plants</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Brett Fogle </font><br> <P>So. The water garden bug has bitten. You've dug and leveled and sweated and said words you hope that no one else has heard. Now it's time for the fun part – picking out your water garden plants!</P><P>Plant varieties within these four categories are what you need to eyeball: deep-water, marginals, oxygenators, and floaters. (If you think these words are big and weird, just thank your stars we're not talking medicine.)</P><P>After you've diligently planted your babies in plastic tubs, pans, or clay pots, packing the fertilizer- and chemical-free soil down tightly, load the container down with pea gravel to keep the soil from floating away. (Don't ask why this works, but it does.) Plunk your prize into the water at the appropriate depth (You'll read about that in just a minute, so hang on to your hat.) and you're on your way!</P><P>Plant-dunking should be done during the growing season. Wait four or five weeks for the water plants to do their thing before you add your fish. If you just can't hold your horses, er, your fish, for that long, you can jump the gun a couple of weeks, but the idea is to let the plants first get established.</P><P>When picking your plants, you'll no doubt be wowed by water lilies of the tropical persuasion. These aquatic wonders lord it over their hardier cousins with knock-out fragrance, big blooms day or night – depending on the variety – and a habit of blooming their little hearts out nearly every day during the growing season. They love their warmth, though, so unless you live in a year-round, warm-weather climate (in which case, you are used to being hated and has absolutely nothing to do with this article), be prepared to hasten them into a greenhouse or at least muster up enough moolah to buy them some "grow" lights to tough it out through the winter. They will definitely bite the dust at freezing temperatures, but give them night-time temps of at least 65F and daytime temps of 75F or warmer, and your love affair with tropicals will only grow that much more torrid.</P><P>Hardy water lilies, while not the showboaters that tropicals are, are . . . well, hardier. Their big advantage is that they can stay in the water year 'round unless it freezes so deeply the rootstock is affected. And being the tough guys they are, you can plant these puppies deeper than the tropicals, some living it up in depths of 8 to 10 feet.</P><P>Both hardy and tropical water lilies are real sun worshippers. At least 5 to 10 hours a day is what it takes, along with regular fertilization, to keep these plant pals happy.</P><P>Everybody and their brother with a water garden wants a lotus plant. (Sisters, too, no doubt.) These water-lily relatives come in hardy and not-so-hardy strains, so make sure you know what you're buying. Much bigger than water lilies, lotus have huge, famously splendid blooms that not only will knock your socks off, but make you forget you have feet altogether. Their leaves and seed pods are so breathtaking, they're a favorite in costly cut-flower arrangements. Big, bold, and beautiful, with water-depth needs of 2-3 feet, these shouters are really better off in big ponds that get plenty of sun.</P><P>Marginals (sometimes called "bog" plants by those less high-falutin') are grass-like plants that strut their stuff in shallow areas no deeper than 6" that border the water garden. They also do well in mud. Cattail, bamboo, rush, papyrus, and many other plants fall into the family of marginals and grow best with a minimum of at least three hours of jolly old Sol.</P><P>Some plants are there but not seen, working stoically under water and without fanfare to fight algae, oxygenate the water, and provide food for fish. (In lieu of these plants, if your pond is small, you can fake it fairly adequately with an aquarium pump.) Easy on the wallet, varieties of these plants can be bought in bunches and like their soil sandy and/or gravelly. Like hardy water lilies, they, too, will warrior it through the winter.</P><P>Water hyacinths have become a recent rage, especially for the lazy among us. No soil is required for these beauties. Toss them in the water and they're "planted." A water hyacinth ain't just another pretty face, though; these plants do their part in the war against algae and blanket weeds by keeping sunlight scarce on the water's surface. But one note of caution: This plant may take over the world if allowed. It's invasive as all get out, so keep it under control or you (and your neighbors) may wish you'd never laid eyes on it.</P><P>A water garden isn't a garden without plants. Take your time, know your climate, and choose wisely. Your rewards will be great in return.</P><P>**************************************************<BR>Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several other pond-related websites including <A href="http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com" target=_blank>http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com</A> " MacArthurWatergardens.com , and <A href="http://www.pond-filters-online.com" target=_blank>http://www.pond-filters-online.com</A> " Pond-Filters-Online.com .</P><P>He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE 'New Pond Owners Guide' visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!<BR>**************************************************</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-5490053583734588317?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-22049436989526069882008-08-29T06:27:00.001-04:002008-08-29T06:27:08.567-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Lessons from My Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Barbara Hemphill </font><br> <P>What does "Lessons from My Garden" have to do with "getting organized? One of the things I've learned after 20+ years as an organizing consultant is that organizing has something to do with everything!</P><P>Here's how organizing principles apply to the art of gardening:</P><P>"Half of any job is using the right tool!" (Note I said "using" – not "having!") It took a blister to convince me to buy a new pair of loppers to finish trimming the butterfly bushes. With the new tool, pruning was easy and painless.</P><P>"Today's mail is tomorrow's pile." While it's certainly important to clean up the trash, weeds, and other undesirables in your garden, if you limit yourself to that activity, you can work very hard and see little results. One of the things my landscape designer taught me was to pick one small area and plant beautiful things to inspire me to keep going. With Paper Tiger, we encourage you to start using Paper Tiger to organize your desktop – you can worry about all those old piles later! After you get the new system in place, you can incorporate the old files into the new system – and if you don't, they'll eventually be old enough that tossing them will be easy. In the meantime, you have what you need to do today's work, and you won't be creating new unidentified piles!</P><P>"Clutter is Postponed Decisions®." One of the first steps in creating any rewarding garden is determining what kind of garden you want – vegetable, herb, cutting, perennial, etc. As great as all those options are, if you try to have all of them in the same space, the result will be disappointing. Or, to apply another Paper Tiger principle, "Put like items together!" Create a specific area in your garden for herbs, another for cut flowers, etc. In the same way, you can create separate "locations" in Paper Tiger for personal papers, active projects, CDs, clients, etc.</P><P>"Successful organizing begins with a vision." The most beautiful gardens are first planted in someone's mind! The initial question I ask every client is "If we were to meet three years from now, what has to happen for you to feel happy about your progress?" Their answers are varied, and include such statements as "I'll be making $100,000/year," or "I'll be taking six weeks of vacation every year," "I'll be working at home," or "I'll have a full-time assistant." If we don't have something to aim for, we'll never get there.</P><P>"Organizing doesn't have a 'right' or 'wrong.'" The most exciting aspect of my work is the "art of organizing." I frequently tell my clients, "You paint a picture for me of what you want to accomplish, and I'll help you create and sustain an environment to make that happen!" What works beautifully for one client would be a complete disaster for another.</P><P>"Organizing is a process not a destination." A garden, like organizing, is a continual process of reassessing what you like, what you don't, rearranging existing plants, and trying new varieties. And so it is with organizing! Continually asking three questions: "Does it work?'' "Do I like it?" "Does it work for the others I care about?" Be willing to take risks, don't worry about mistakes, and just keep learning!</P><P>© Barbara Hemphill is the author of Kiplinger's Taming the Paper Tiger at Work and Taming the Paper Tiger at Home and co-author of Love It or Lose It: Living Clutter-Free Forever. The mission of Hemphill Productivity Institute is to help individuals and organizations create and sustain a productive environment so they can accomplish their work and enjoy their lives. We do this by organizing space, information, and time. We can be reached at 800-427-0237 or at <A href="http://www.ProductiveEnvironment.com" target=_blank>http://www.ProductiveEnvironment.com</A> " <A href="http://www.ProductiveEnvironment.com" target=_blank>www.ProductiveEnvironment.com</A> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-2204943698952606988?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-27881068717862640282008-08-22T06:01:00.002-04:002008-08-22T06:02:59.645-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Winter Gardening</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Candee Stark </font><br> Ok, the title might be a tad bit misleading. I am not suggesting that you actually garden during the winter but you should be using this time to plan your upcoming garden.<BR><BR>As you look out at your yard and garden area during the cold months of winter, let your thoughts run wild and you will be amazed at what images you can conjure up. You might even want to try some of your new found ideas this spring!<BR><BR><B>1.</B> Pour through garden catalogs, flip the pages and fold down the corner anytime you find something you like. Go back to it often until you decide what new plants and flowers you would like to try this spring.<BR><BR><B>2.</B> Purchase a gardening book or magazine. Look at what other people are trying in their gardens and see if their ideas inspire you to try something new.<BR><BR><B>3.</B> Look out your windows and try to visualize how you would like your yard and garden to look like. Study the sun....notice the shady spots.<BR><BR><B>4.</B> Make a list of what is important to you, in other words, what do you want from your yard and garden? Do you want to create a patio area for entertaining, a vegetable garden so you grow all of your own vegetables, a quiet area for relaxing, or maybe an area that will attract wildlife. Anything is possible but it is important to recognize what you want before you actually start any gardening project. Ultimately, knowing what you want will save time and money!<BR><BR><B>5.</B> Take lots of notes and draw any ideas you might come up with.(even those ideas that wake you up in the middle of the night!)<BR><BR><B>6.</B> Of course, visit online nurseries to see what they have to offer. Many sites offer suggestions and interesting gardening articles as well.<BR><BR>Before you know it spring will be here, you will have a shovel in your hand, and you will have a plan! <B>Always Happy Gardening!</B><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>© 2005, Candee Stark and <A href="http://www.flowers-and-garden.com/" target=_blank>http://www.flowers-and-garden.com/</A> Flowers & Garden.com <BR><BR>This article is provided courtesy of Flowers and Garden.com - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.<BR><BR>Subscribe to our daily <A href="http://flowers-and-garden.blogspot.com" target=_blank>http://flowers-and-garden.blogspot.com</A> <B>Flowers&Garden Blog</B> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-2788106871786264028?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-77914193645970996942008-08-22T06:01:00.001-04:002008-08-22T06:01:09.717-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Winter Gardening</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Candee Stark </font><br> Ok, the title might be a tad bit misleading. I am not suggesting that you actually garden during the winter but you should be using this time to plan your upcoming garden.<BR><BR>As you look out at your yard and garden area during the cold months of winter, let your thoughts run wild and you will be amazed at what images you can conjure up. You might even want to try some of your new found ideas this spring!<BR><BR><B>1.</B> Pour through garden catalogs, flip the pages and fold down the corner anytime you find something you like. Go back to it often until you decide what new plants and flowers you would like to try this spring.<BR><BR><B>2.</B> Purchase a gardening book or magazine. Look at what other people are trying in their gardens and see if their ideas inspire you to try something new.<BR><BR><B>3.</B> Look out your windows and try to visualize how you would like your yard and garden to look like. Study the sun....notice the shady spots.<BR><BR><B>4.</B> Make a list of what is important to you, in other words, what do you want from your yard and garden? Do you want to create a patio area for entertaining, a vegetable garden so you grow all of your own vegetables, a quiet area for relaxing, or maybe an area that will attract wildlife. Anything is possible but it is important to recognize what you want before you actually start any gardening project. Ultimately, knowing what you want will save time and money!<BR><BR><B>5.</B> Take lots of notes and draw any ideas you might come up with.(even those ideas that wake you up in the middle of the night!)<BR><BR><B>6.</B> Of course, visit online nurseries to see what they have to offer. Many sites offer suggestions and interesting gardening articles as well.<BR><BR>Before you know it spring will be here, you will have a shovel in your hand, and you will have a plan! <B>Always Happy Gardening!</B><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>© 2005, Candee Stark and <A href="http://www.flowers-and-garden.com/" target=_blank>http://www.flowers-and-garden.com/</A> Flowers & Garden.com <BR><BR>This article is provided courtesy of Flowers and Garden.com - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.<BR><BR>Subscribe to our daily <A href="http://flowers-and-garden.blogspot.com" target=_blank>http://flowers-and-garden.blogspot.com</A> <B>Flowers&Garden Blog</B> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-7791419364597099694?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-71918126611413095912008-08-15T05:29:00.001-04:002008-08-15T05:29:10.185-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>10 Free Gardening Products</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Linda Gray </font><br> One of the pleasurable spin-offs in organic gardening is finding alternative ways of coming up with the same, if not better, end result.....<BR>Household throwaways can be valuable to the alternate enthusiast. Here are ten recyclable ideas to make gardening a little less hard on the pocket!<BR><BR>1.Hedge clippings: Instead of burning or direct composting, beg, borrow or even buy, if the quantity justifies the price, an electric garden muncher.<BR>Branches up to an inch in diameter are posted into a slot and the machine munches them up into small chips. Spread these chips thickly around shrubs or fruit trees to help keep moisture in, and control the temperature of the soil.<BR><BR>2.Food Waste: All food waste must be composted. Composting is becoming quite an art form, and special composting bins can be bought, or very simply made.<BR>There are many different theories and each gardener will find his or her preferred way. Keeping the compost fairly warm is the overall key to a good result. Or, if you're in no hurry, simply keep adding to a heap, and dig out the bottom when required. Sieve before using and the compost will be ready<BR>for planting small plants and even seeds.<BR><BR>3.Old carpets, large damaged cardboard boxes; and similar materials can be laid over the vegetable plot in autumn to help prevent those early spring weeds appearing. Spread over a whole patch and weigh down with stones or logs. Lift off on a sunny day in early spring a few days before digging.<BR><BR>4.Paint trays: Keep old roller painting trays and similar containers for seed trays. Punch a few holes in the bottom for drainage. Add a little fine gravel before filling with seed compost. Seed trays shouldn't be deeper than 15cm.<BR><BR>5.Yoghurt pots: All plastic yoghurt or dessert pots can be washed and saved for re-potting seedlings. Make a hole in the bottom of each and add a little fine gravel before filling with compost or soil..<BR><BR>6.Glass jars: Glass jars with sealable lids are excellent for storing seeds, beans and peas for planting next year. (Safe from mice as well) After washing the jars, dry in the oven to remove all traces of moisture before storing your seeds. Collect dark glass jars, or wrap paper round clear jars to prevent seeds being damaged by light.<BR><BR>7.Ice Lolly sticks: Make perfect row markers in your seed trays or greenhouse beds. The wooden ones won't last for ever but you can at least write on them with pen, pencil or crayons!<BR><BR>8.Wire coat hangers: Make mini-cloches with discarded or broken wire coat hangers. Pull into a square shape. Place the hook in the soil and push down gently until the natural bend in the wire rests on top of the soil. Place another a short distance away in your seed bed to create two ends of a cloche. Now throw over a sheet of plastic and hold down with logs or stones.<BR>Note: this will work only when creating very small cloches.<BR><BR>9.Clear plastic: Keep any clear plastic containers that could be placed upside down over a plant. Cut a mineral water bottle in half to make two handy individual cloches. Large sheets of clear plastic from packaged household items are fine for throwing over mini coat hanger cloches.<BR><BR>10.Aluminium bottle tops: Keep aluminium tops from milk or juice bottles, and also coloured foil around beer or wine bottles. Thread together to maka bird scarer. Simply thread with thick cotton and hang on your fruit bushes before the birds find the new fruits.<BR><BR>Look out for other tools for the garden from kitchen throwaways such as:<BR><BR>old kitchen spoons and forks for transplanting tiny plants in the greenhouse.<BR><BR>Leaky buckets for harvesting small quantities of potatoes, carrots etc;<BR><BR>light wooden boxes for harvesting salads through the summer, and transporting pots etc;<BR><BR>Keep an eye on that rubbish bag and turn today's throwaways into tomorrow's tools!<BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Linda Gray is a freelance writer and, with her partner, has spent ten years renovating an acre of neglected woodland. With a growing family to feed 'off the land', frugal gardening has become second nature! Drop in at <A href="http://www.flower-and-garden-tips.com" target=_blank>http://www.flower-and-garden-tips.com</A> for pots of gardening inspiration! <BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-7191812661141309591?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-42569861514173656802008-08-08T05:20:00.002-04:002008-08-08T05:21:51.174-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Greenhouse Gardening</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Matthew Leo </font><br> A Greenhouse can extend your growing season by months and allow you to sow seeds and harvest crops much earlier than you normally would. With proper planning, some crops can be harvested continuously. This can turn your gardening and cultivation into a year round activity. A wider variety of plants started from seed. The germination rate will be much higher as well. The amount of sunlight that a greenhouse allows and the ability to control temperatures will give you a healthier and more productive crop. By starting your crops from seed you can also be assured that your crops are as organic as can be, provided the seeds were not treated with fungicide (ask your nursery). A greenhouse can also make it possible for you to grow plants that you normally may not be able to grow at all due to climate. Many citrus and other fruit crops fall into this category.<BR><BR>Greenhouses come in all shapes, from the standard rectangular shape, to round or even conservatories connected to the house. There is no best size for a greenhouse. The size that fits your space best works fine. Even a small greenhouse can accomodate many plants. Some commercially made greenhouses are extendable with add on sections to add as needed.<BR><BR>The best available material for a greenhouse frame is aluminum. The maintentance is very low, it never deteriorates, and it allows the most light in due to it being thinner than wooden frames.<BR><BR>Make sure you allow for good ventilation. Allow room for at least one work bench. Keep in mind that you will also need storage space in the greenhouse for extra pots, hand tools, etc.<BR><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Matthew Leo is the publisher of numerous websites, including <A href="http://www.organic-gardening.net" target=_blank>http://www.organic-gardening.net</A> Organic Gardening , <A href="http://www.practicalwine.com" target=_blank>http://www.practicalwine.com</A> Practical Wine and <A href="http://www.cooking-recipes.net" target=_blank>http://www.cooking-recipes.net</A> Cooking Recipes <BR><BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-4256986151417365680?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-17663305890335291702008-08-08T05:20:00.001-04:002008-08-08T05:20:11.287-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Greenhouse Gardening</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Matthew Leo </font><br> A Greenhouse can extend your growing season by months and allow you to sow seeds and harvest crops much earlier than you normally would. With proper planning, some crops can be harvested continuously. This can turn your gardening and cultivation into a year round activity. A wider variety of plants started from seed. The germination rate will be much higher as well. The amount of sunlight that a greenhouse allows and the ability to control temperatures will give you a healthier and more productive crop. By starting your crops from seed you can also be assured that your crops are as organic as can be, provided the seeds were not treated with fungicide (ask your nursery). A greenhouse can also make it possible for you to grow plants that you normally may not be able to grow at all due to climate. Many citrus and other fruit crops fall into this category.<BR><BR>Greenhouses come in all shapes, from the standard rectangular shape, to round or even conservatories connected to the house. There is no best size for a greenhouse. The size that fits your space best works fine. Even a small greenhouse can accomodate many plants. Some commercially made greenhouses are extendable with add on sections to add as needed.<BR><BR>The best available material for a greenhouse frame is aluminum. The maintentance is very low, it never deteriorates, and it allows the most light in due to it being thinner than wooden frames.<BR><BR>Make sure you allow for good ventilation. Allow room for at least one work bench. Keep in mind that you will also need storage space in the greenhouse for extra pots, hand tools, etc.<BR><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Matthew Leo is the publisher of numerous websites, including <A href="http://www.organic-gardening.net" target=_blank>http://www.organic-gardening.net</A> Organic Gardening , <A href="http://www.practicalwine.com" target=_blank>http://www.practicalwine.com</A> Practical Wine and <A href="http://www.cooking-recipes.net" target=_blank>http://www.cooking-recipes.net</A> Cooking Recipes <BR><BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-1766330589033529170?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-4975037732488201742008-08-01T05:16:00.001-04:002008-08-01T05:16:10.890-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>How to Make Sure Your Plants Survive the Move</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> dan the roommate man </font><br> If you have house plants, and you're moving to a new location, you have three options: donate 'em, dump 'em, or dare to take 'em with you. So, you may not care for your plants like a "Professional," but Charlie Nardozzi, senior horticulturist for The National Gardening Association, provides some great advice for those who can't bear to leave their precious plants behind:<BR><BR>If you're flying to the new location: "I believe your first step should be to contact the airline you are travelling with. They most likely have very specific guidelines (and I bet regulations) on transporting plant life. Also contact the Department of Agriculture in the state you are moving to; they may also have regulations to prevent the importation of pests."<BR><BR>If you're travelling by vehicle: "For the plants that are going in the truck, you should insure that your plants are in containers that will not break. If they are in terra cotta pots, transfer them to plastic. Perhaps it would be a good idea to go to your local nursery or garden center and ask about those black plastic nursery pots. Around here you can get used ones for a nickel a piece! Be sure to sterilize them however."<BR><BR>Other tips: "Your plants will need to be kept moist during their journey. Give them a good watering and then wrap the soil tops with sphagnum moss you have soaked overnight. I would then wrap the whole pot in newspaper, and then in burlap. It probably would not be out of order to loosely wrap the foliage in burlap also to avoid breakage of leaves and stems."<BR><BR>"For cuttings, I would wrap them in the wet moss as well and wrap in newspaper. Then place the wrapped cuttings in an UNSEALED ziploc bag. Place the bags in a cardboard box with some sort of light packing material. I mail cuttings and small plants quite often and this works well, even when mailing across the country. I would definitely put these on the truck...you don't want any unusual plants in baggies that are boxed up going through the inspection process without you there to explain...have you ever seen Midnight Express? Wouldn't want all that trouble over a dieffenbachia now, would we?"<BR><BR>If you're moving from a large space into a small one, and don't have room for your plants, consider donating them to local nursing homes and then you might want to contact The American Community Gardening Association, 100 North 20th St., Philadelphia, PA 19103; ph# 215-988-8785 to find the closest community garden. Otherwise, follow Charlie's advice, and both you and your plants will continue to grow and flourish in your new environment!<BR><BR>Helpful Links:<BR><BR>* Better Homes & Gardens offers discussion groups, a library of advice and weekly columns about gardening.<BR>* National Gardening Association If you can't find your the answer to your question in the NGA library, you can email questions, and they promise to respond within 48 hours.<BR>* Empire National Nursery, LLC. is the first 24 hour on line nursery.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Since 1989 dan the roommate man has helped 1000's of people find roommates. Need help? Contact him at 800-487-8050 or <A href="http://www.roommateexpress.com" target=_blank>www.roommateexpress.com</A> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-497503773248820174?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-9825248109648882882008-07-25T04:27:00.001-04:002008-07-25T04:27:14.018-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>How To Use Biennials & Perennials In Landscaping Your Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Paul Curran </font><br> <B>Biennials</B><BR><BR>Biennials are generally very beautiful plants, with most <BR>attractive flowers. They are somewhat more trouble for the <BR>gardener, since they keep growing during their first year and do <BR>not bloom until the second. Their great advantage is that their <BR>seeding stage produces new plants which will bloom again two <BR>years later, making it unnecessary to plant additional seeds. <BR><BR>The biennials are usually plant ed in early summer and <BR>transplanted to good soil when they are large enough to handle. <BR>It is a good idea to pot them at this time, particularly in areas <BR>where plants cannot be left outdoors all winter. In some cases, <BR>they can be transplanted to a coldframe, and then placed in the <BR>flower bed the following spring. The requirements of careful soil <BR>preparation apply to biennials as well as annuals. <BR><BR>After planting, if you want a continuous new growth of plants, it <BR>is best not to weed and cultivate too assiduously. If a really <BR>fastidious biennial patch is planted, it will be necessary to <BR>replace the plants with new ones each year. <BR><BR><B>Perennials</B><BR><BR>Perennials are the basic flowers of any garden. Each year they <BR>die and renew themselves for the next growing season. <BR><BR>They are long-lived and last for many seasons. Perennials are <BR>also, historically, among our oldest plants. They have been <BR>cultivated for centuries and often, as a result of breeding and <BR>crossbreeding, bear no resemblance to their wild forebears. In <BR>some of the perennials, the blossoms have become so specialized <BR>through centuries of cultivation that they no longer grow 'seeds. <BR><BR>Other perennials are continually being developed by amateur <BR>botanists and gardeners. As a result of this cultivation and <BR>inbreeding, perennials as a rule are not as hardy as other <BR>varieties. Another disadvantage is the tendency of certain <BR>perennials to die down after flowering, thereby leaving gaps in <BR>the garden. <BR><BR>There are a number of ways to solve the problems of <BR>short-flowering periods and the resultant unsightly spaces. One <BR>way is to intersperse perennials with annuals and other bulbs and <BR>flowering plants whose bloom occurs either later or earlier than <BR>that of the perennials. Some perennials are easy to transplant: <BR>chrysanthemums, for example, can be moved from one place to <BR>another with no noticeable effect on their vigor. <BR><BR>This is another way to keep color and bloom throughout the <BR>growing season. A garden of perennials, either by themselves or <BR>mixed with annuals and other bulbs, should be placed along a <BR>path, or as a border, with a background of trees, shrubs, a wall <BR>or fence. <BR><BR>The background shows the brilliant coloring to best advantage. <BR>Some varieties can flourish in the shade, such as anemone, lily <BR>of the valley, day lilies, sweet pea, primrose, hollyhock, <BR>harebell and peonies, but these flowers must be chosen carefully <BR>and faced so that some sun reaches them every day. <BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Paul Curran is CEO of Cuzcom Internet Publishing Group and <BR>webmaster at Trees-and-Bushes.com, providing access to their <BR>nursery supplier of a range of quality plants, trees, bushes, <BR>shrubs, seeds and garden products. <A href="http://www.trees-and-bushes.com" target=_blank>http://www.trees-and-bushes.com</A> Visit their site now to <BR>find a great selection of flowers for your garden <BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-982524810964888288?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-9490153453259088492008-07-18T03:34:00.002-04:002008-07-18T03:35:55.960-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Healthy Garden Soil - Composting; how, when, & why</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Sara Chute </font><br> In the soft, warm bosom of a decaying compost heap, a transformation from life to death and back again is taking place. Life is leaving the living plants of yesterday, but in their death these leaves and stalks pass on their vitality to the coming generations of future seasons. Here in the dank, moldy pile the wheel of life is turning.<BR><BR>Compost is more than a fertilizer or a healing agent for the soil's wounds. It is a symbol of continuing life. Nature herself made compost before man first walked the earth and before the first dinosaur lifted its head above the primeval swamp. Leaves falling to the forest floor and slowing moldering are composting. The dead grass of the meadow seared by winter's frost is being composted by the dampness of the earth beneath. Birds, insects and animals contribute their bodies to this vast and continuing soil rebuilding program of nature.<BR><BR>The compost heap in your garden is an intensified version of this process of death and rebuilding which is going on almost everywhere in nature. In the course of running a garden, there is always an accumulation of organic waste of different sorts - leaves, grass clippings, weeds, twigs - and since time immemorial gardeners have been accumulating this material in piles, eventually to spread it back on the soil as rich, dark humus.<BR><BR>The Purpose of Composting:<BR><BR>Gardening and farming disrupt the natural pattern of the return of plant matter to the earth. Compost is the link between modern agriculture and nature's own method of building soil fertility.<BR><BR>In addition to returning rotting vegetable material to the soil, there are two major reasons for making compost: <BR><BR>- to render certain materials such as manure and garbage pleasant to handle<BR><BR>- to increase the nitrogen content of low-nitrogen materials such as sawdust, straw and corncobs <BR><BR>The high heat of composting rapidly "cooks" the smell out of manure and garden waste. This is a significant gain because gardeners are often reluctant to use those materials "fresh".<BR><BR>The composting process also increases the nitrogen content of the pile. Microorganisms "burn off" much of the carbon, reducing the cubic bulk of the heap but correspondingly increasing its nitrogen portion.<BR><BR>Organic matter is valuable to the soil only while it is decaying. Even finished compost is actually only partly decayed. It continues to break down in the soil, providing food for increasing populations of microorganisms upon which your plant health depends. Pound per pound (kg per kg) compost is the finest soil conditioner to be had.<BR><BR>How To Make Compost<BR><BR>Making compost is not difficult and can be easily done at home. Essentially, the basic methods call for layering natural ingredients in heaps in mixed proportions, providing necessary air and moisture and turning the heaps to provide bacterial action on all parts of the heap.<BR><BR>Just about any organic matter can be used. Weeds, fruit and vegetable peelings, grass, garden clippings, dead flowers, sawdust, woodchips, coffee wastes, nutshells, shredded leaves, and more can all be used provided they are chemical, pesticide and herbicide free. Also, do not use feces, or dead animals. In short, think to yourself, "Do I really want to eat this?" <BR><BR>Compost can be made either in open piles or in bins. Piles are more easily turned, but bins have a better appearance in the garden. Bins also have the advantage of better moisture and temperature control. Personally, I have found beginning with a pit in the garden seems to work best, as it attracts earthworms to help with the breakdown of the materials, plus you can turn it easily. <BR><BR>1. Whichever method you choose, select a sunny spot and begin by putting down a 6 inch layer of plant wastes such as spoiled hay, straw, sawdust, plant leaves (shredding them first helps) garden clippings, or wood chips<BR><BR>2. Add a 2 inch layer of manure and bedding<BR><BR>3. Follow with a layer of topsoil, approximately 1/8 inch thick. Unrine-impregnated topsoil is particularly valuable but find out what the animals have been eating as hormones, antibiotics, and chemicals etc, will end up in your soil and then in your food.<BR><BR>4. On top of this layer of soil spread a sprinkling of lime, phosphate, bone meal, rock, granite dust, or wood ashes to increase the mineral content of the heap. Lime is not added if an acid compost is wanted.<BR><BR>5. Water the pile, and continue the process of laying. Do not trample on the heap as if it is matted down, aeration will be impeded. <BR><BR>Within a few days the heap will begin to heat up and start to shrink in size. The heap is turned with a pitchfork 2 - 3 weeks after being made, and again at about 5 weeks of age. Care is taken during turning to place the outer parts of the heap on the inside so that they can decay fully. <BR><BR>Do not turn the heap too frequently, as it needs to build up heat for the decaying process. Keep the pile moist, but not wet, and let nature take its course. The compost will be finished after about 3 months.<BR><BR>When To Apply Compost:<BR><BR>The main influence on timing, rate and method of applying compost is its condition, age, and degree to which the composting process is complete. Fully mature compost resembles - indeed, it is - supersoil, a light, rich loam. If half completed so it still retains some fibrous material, it will continue to decompose and generate heat. Such compost should be permitted to finish composting. Never place it near growing plants. However, if you have unfinished compost in the fall of the year, it is safe to apply it. It will finish up in the soil and be ready to supply growth nutrients to the first spring plantings.<BR><BR>The preferred time to apply fully matured compost is a month or so before planting - or, if you are a successive cropper, planting two or more crops to the same parcel of land each session, just before planting. The closer to planting time it goes on, the finer it should be shredded or chopped, and the more thoroughly it should be hoed or tilled into your soil.<BR><BR>If compost is ready in the fall but not intended for use until spring, it should be kept covered and stored in a protected place. If it is kept for a long period of time during the summer, the finished compost should be watered from time to time.<BR><BR>How To Apply:<BR><BR>For general application, the soil should be stirred or turned thoroughly. Then the compost is added to the top four inches of soil. For flower and vegetable gardening, it is best to pan the compost through a 1/2 inch sieve. Course material remaining may then be put into another compost heap.<BR><BR>To avoid disturbing roots of established plants, compost should be mixed with topsoil aand applied as mulch. This is often termed "side dressing". It serves a double purpose, providing plant food that will gradually work itself down to the growing crop, and as a mulch giving protection from extremes of temperature, hard rains and growth of weeds.<BR><BR>For best results, compost should be applied liberally, from 1 - 3 inches per year. There is no danger of burning due to overuse, as happens with artificial fertilizers. Apply compost either once or twice a year.<BR><BR>Layered Garden or "Lasagna" Garden<BR><BR>For those of you who are short on garden space, you might want to try one of the two methods pictured on the right. The first picture allows for more intensive gardening (more plants for the area available). <BR><BR>See pictures at <A href="http://www.growitgold.com/resources/soil.shtml" target=_blank>http://www.growitgold.com/resources/soil.shtml</A> <BR><BR>1. Begin by digging a pit of the appropriate size <BR><BR>2. Line the bottom with wire mesh if rodents are a problem in your area <BR>The core or bottom of your compost pile garden is made up of twigs, small branches, and other coarse materials <BR>Next comes twigs, finely shredded branches, sawdust, etc <BR><BR>3. On top of this, place garden materials such as weeds, lawn clippings, fruit and vegetable peelings from the kitchen, coffee grounds, shredded leaves. It's best to shred the leaves, as too many leaves placed in whole can pack down and prevent natural aeration and decomposition (it might start to stink) <BR><BR>4. Follow with a layer of partially finished compost.<BR><BR>5. Top with fully finished compost mixed with quality topsoil <BR><BR>For more gardening information, please visit <A href="http://www.growitgold.com/resourceindex.shtml" target=_blank>http://www.growitgold.com/resourceindex.shtml</A> <BR><BR>This article has been brought to you by: GROWIT GOLD Garden &<BR>Landscape design software. See the slideshow – <A href="http://www.growitgold.com" target=_blank>http://www.growitgold.com</A> <BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>A national and internation freelance writer since 1985, Sara has<BR>myriad articles and special editions to her name. Main interests<BR>include science & technology, and organic gardening.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-949015345325908849?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-44703720265159504612008-07-18T03:34:00.001-04:002008-07-18T03:34:09.266-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Healthy Garden Soil - Composting; how, when, & why</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Sara Chute </font><br> In the soft, warm bosom of a decaying compost heap, a transformation from life to death and back again is taking place. Life is leaving the living plants of yesterday, but in their death these leaves and stalks pass on their vitality to the coming generations of future seasons. Here in the dank, moldy pile the wheel of life is turning.<BR><BR>Compost is more than a fertilizer or a healing agent for the soil's wounds. It is a symbol of continuing life. Nature herself made compost before man first walked the earth and before the first dinosaur lifted its head above the primeval swamp. Leaves falling to the forest floor and slowing moldering are composting. The dead grass of the meadow seared by winter's frost is being composted by the dampness of the earth beneath. Birds, insects and animals contribute their bodies to this vast and continuing soil rebuilding program of nature.<BR><BR>The compost heap in your garden is an intensified version of this process of death and rebuilding which is going on almost everywhere in nature. In the course of running a garden, there is always an accumulation of organic waste of different sorts - leaves, grass clippings, weeds, twigs - and since time immemorial gardeners have been accumulating this material in piles, eventually to spread it back on the soil as rich, dark humus.<BR><BR>The Purpose of Composting:<BR><BR>Gardening and farming disrupt the natural pattern of the return of plant matter to the earth. Compost is the link between modern agriculture and nature's own method of building soil fertility.<BR><BR>In addition to returning rotting vegetable material to the soil, there are two major reasons for making compost: <BR><BR>- to render certain materials such as manure and garbage pleasant to handle<BR><BR>- to increase the nitrogen content of low-nitrogen materials such as sawdust, straw and corncobs <BR><BR>The high heat of composting rapidly "cooks" the smell out of manure and garden waste. This is a significant gain because gardeners are often reluctant to use those materials "fresh".<BR><BR>The composting process also increases the nitrogen content of the pile. Microorganisms "burn off" much of the carbon, reducing the cubic bulk of the heap but correspondingly increasing its nitrogen portion.<BR><BR>Organic matter is valuable to the soil only while it is decaying. Even finished compost is actually only partly decayed. It continues to break down in the soil, providing food for increasing populations of microorganisms upon which your plant health depends. Pound per pound (kg per kg) compost is the finest soil conditioner to be had.<BR><BR>How To Make Compost<BR><BR>Making compost is not difficult and can be easily done at home. Essentially, the basic methods call for layering natural ingredients in heaps in mixed proportions, providing necessary air and moisture and turning the heaps to provide bacterial action on all parts of the heap.<BR><BR>Just about any organic matter can be used. Weeds, fruit and vegetable peelings, grass, garden clippings, dead flowers, sawdust, woodchips, coffee wastes, nutshells, shredded leaves, and more can all be used provided they are chemical, pesticide and herbicide free. Also, do not use feces, or dead animals. In short, think to yourself, "Do I really want to eat this?" <BR><BR>Compost can be made either in open piles or in bins. Piles are more easily turned, but bins have a better appearance in the garden. Bins also have the advantage of better moisture and temperature control. Personally, I have found beginning with a pit in the garden seems to work best, as it attracts earthworms to help with the breakdown of the materials, plus you can turn it easily. <BR><BR>1. Whichever method you choose, select a sunny spot and begin by putting down a 6 inch layer of plant wastes such as spoiled hay, straw, sawdust, plant leaves (shredding them first helps) garden clippings, or wood chips<BR><BR>2. Add a 2 inch layer of manure and bedding<BR><BR>3. Follow with a layer of topsoil, approximately 1/8 inch thick. Unrine-impregnated topsoil is particularly valuable but find out what the animals have been eating as hormones, antibiotics, and chemicals etc, will end up in your soil and then in your food.<BR><BR>4. On top of this layer of soil spread a sprinkling of lime, phosphate, bone meal, rock, granite dust, or wood ashes to increase the mineral content of the heap. Lime is not added if an acid compost is wanted.<BR><BR>5. Water the pile, and continue the process of laying. Do not trample on the heap as if it is matted down, aeration will be impeded. <BR><BR>Within a few days the heap will begin to heat up and start to shrink in size. The heap is turned with a pitchfork 2 - 3 weeks after being made, and again at about 5 weeks of age. Care is taken during turning to place the outer parts of the heap on the inside so that they can decay fully. <BR><BR>Do not turn the heap too frequently, as it needs to build up heat for the decaying process. Keep the pile moist, but not wet, and let nature take its course. The compost will be finished after about 3 months.<BR><BR>When To Apply Compost:<BR><BR>The main influence on timing, rate and method of applying compost is its condition, age, and degree to which the composting process is complete. Fully mature compost resembles - indeed, it is - supersoil, a light, rich loam. If half completed so it still retains some fibrous material, it will continue to decompose and generate heat. Such compost should be permitted to finish composting. Never place it near growing plants. However, if you have unfinished compost in the fall of the year, it is safe to apply it. It will finish up in the soil and be ready to supply growth nutrients to the first spring plantings.<BR><BR>The preferred time to apply fully matured compost is a month or so before planting - or, if you are a successive cropper, planting two or more crops to the same parcel of land each session, just before planting. The closer to planting time it goes on, the finer it should be shredded or chopped, and the more thoroughly it should be hoed or tilled into your soil.<BR><BR>If compost is ready in the fall but not intended for use until spring, it should be kept covered and stored in a protected place. If it is kept for a long period of time during the summer, the finished compost should be watered from time to time.<BR><BR>How To Apply:<BR><BR>For general application, the soil should be stirred or turned thoroughly. Then the compost is added to the top four inches of soil. For flower and vegetable gardening, it is best to pan the compost through a 1/2 inch sieve. Course material remaining may then be put into another compost heap.<BR><BR>To avoid disturbing roots of established plants, compost should be mixed with topsoil aand applied as mulch. This is often termed "side dressing". It serves a double purpose, providing plant food that will gradually work itself down to the growing crop, and as a mulch giving protection from extremes of temperature, hard rains and growth of weeds.<BR><BR>For best results, compost should be applied liberally, from 1 - 3 inches per year. There is no danger of burning due to overuse, as happens with artificial fertilizers. Apply compost either once or twice a year.<BR><BR>Layered Garden or "Lasagna" Garden<BR><BR>For those of you who are short on garden space, you might want to try one of the two methods pictured on the right. The first picture allows for more intensive gardening (more plants for the area available). <BR><BR>See pictures at <A href="http://www.growitgold.com/resources/soil.shtml" target=_blank>http://www.growitgold.com/resources/soil.shtml</A> <BR><BR>1. Begin by digging a pit of the appropriate size <BR><BR>2. Line the bottom with wire mesh if rodents are a problem in your area <BR>The core or bottom of your compost pile garden is made up of twigs, small branches, and other coarse materials <BR>Next comes twigs, finely shredded branches, sawdust, etc <BR><BR>3. On top of this, place garden materials such as weeds, lawn clippings, fruit and vegetable peelings from the kitchen, coffee grounds, shredded leaves. It's best to shred the leaves, as too many leaves placed in whole can pack down and prevent natural aeration and decomposition (it might start to stink) <BR><BR>4. Follow with a layer of partially finished compost.<BR><BR>5. Top with fully finished compost mixed with quality topsoil <BR><BR>For more gardening information, please visit <A href="http://www.growitgold.com/resourceindex.shtml" target=_blank>http://www.growitgold.com/resourceindex.shtml</A> <BR><BR>This article has been brought to you by: GROWIT GOLD Garden &<BR>Landscape design software. See the slideshow – <A href="http://www.growitgold.com" target=_blank>http://www.growitgold.com</A> <BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>A national and internation freelance writer since 1985, Sara has<BR>myriad articles and special editions to her name. Main interests<BR>include science & technology, and organic gardening.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-4470372026515950461?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-5181171892186411962008-07-11T02:37:00.001-04:002008-07-11T02:37:08.486-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Perennials in the Flower Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Sandra Dinkins-Wilson </font><br> Perennials are the basic flowers of any flower garden. To many people, a flower garden is simply beds of perennials. Each year they die and renew themselves for the next growing season. They can be long-lived and last for many seasons. However, care must be taken for the rapid growers which may smother less vigorous flowers. Perennials such as the iris and shasta daisies must be divided or transplanted every few years to prevent this from happening. This is a simple process which we will cover in another article.<BR><BR>Historically, perennials are among our oldest plants. They have been cultivated for centuries and can bear little to no resemblance to their wild antecedents. In some perennials, the blossoms have become so specialized through centuries of cultivation that they no longer grow 'seeds'. Indeed most perennials reproduce by sending up new plants from the base of the old one which is why the dividing process spoken of earlier must take place at intervals.<BR><BR>Another supposed disadvantage is the tendency of certain perennials to die down after flowering, thereby leaving gaps in the garden. There are a number of ways to solve this problem and the resultant spaces. One way is to intersperse perennials with annuals and other flowering plants, whose bloom occurs either later or earlier than that of the perennials. Instead of being a disadvantage, think of this as an opportunity to phase in more flowering plants into your garden design. <BR><BR>Some perennials are easy to transplant. Mums, for example, can be moved from one place to another with no noticeable effect. This is yet another way to keep the color and blooms in your flower garden throughout the growing season.<BR><BR>When your perennials do die down, remove and compost the dead and dying foliage and flowers. If the planting is large enough and accessible, some gardeners will simply mow over the spent flowers. <BR><BR>Perennials, either by themselves or mixed with annuals and other plants, can be placed along a path, or as a border against a background of trees, shrubs, a wall or fence. Such a background shows the flowers to best advantage. When planning such a border or planting along a path, care should be taken to consider the ultimate height of the plant, it's season of bloom, the color of the flower, and its hardiness and preference for sun or shade, type of soil and amount of water. <BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Find more ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-518117189218641196?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-67362581187626260142008-07-04T02:05:00.001-04:002008-07-04T02:05:09.445-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Spruce up your garden with Birdhouses</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Johann Erickson </font><br> <A href="http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/decorative-birdhouses.html" target=_blank>http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/decorative-birdhouses.html</A> Decorative Birdhouses are active garden ornamentation --the presence and movement of birds creates a fluid focal point for your garden. As such, placement is critical for you to earn maximum benefit from your birdhouses. Cavity nesting birds will not be attracted to your garden without the appropriate environment. Each bird has a particular way they want to live and specific needs. <BR><BR><BR>You'll have a better chance of getting the feathered tenant of your choice if you do your research. For example, if you want to host Eastern Bluebirds, you'll need to place the birdhouse at approximately 5 feet high and provide an entrance of 1 ½ inch in diameter. On the other hand, The Northern Flicker is drawn by heights of up to 30 feet and needs a southeast facing home. Wrens like their nests to be located in shrubs, while Swallows desire close proximity to bodies of water. Building a pond or enhancing an existing one will make your garden more attractive to these particular birds. You will also enjoy the added aesthetic. <BR><BR><BR>In addition to bird knowledge, you can attract most birds with a <A href="http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/decorative-bird-bath-fountains.html" target=_blank>http://www.onlinediscountmart.com/decorative-bird-bath-fountains.html</A> birdbath , carefully selected foliage, and plants that bear fruit. However, keep these a distance from the birdhouse so that the birds occupying it will not have to compete to keep it. If you don't want to mount a pole in your garden area, you can attach your birdhouse to a tree limb, tree trunk, or fence post.<BR><BR><BR>Additional tips are as follows:<BR><BR><UL><BR><LI>Situate the birdhouse entrance in such a way as to avoid overheating it.<BR><LI>Place the birdhouse out of the way of predators like cats and coyotes.<BR><LI>Allow for a clear flight pattern to the entrance hole.<BR><LI>Place the appropriate nesting material near your birdhouse to make it easy for birds to settle in.<BR><LI>Keep bird food fresh. <BR></LI></UL><BR>Birdhouses provide shelter for birds and also entertaining decor for you and your guests. The birds' presence provides dramatic beauty as the scenery changes each time you glance into your garden.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Johann Erickson is the owner of <A href="http://www.onlinediscountmart.com" target=_blank>http://www.onlinediscountmart.com</A> Online Discount Mart Please include an active link to our site if you'd like to reprint this article.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-6736258118762626014?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-13888639976128298122008-06-27T01:46:00.001-04:002008-06-27T01:46:09.089-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Growing Japanese Bonsai Trees for Bonsai Gardens</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Christopher Chase </font><br> As you go through the history of Japanese bonsai trees (among others), you will note that this term is used to refer to a 'plant in a pot'. As per the information provided on Harvard's Arnold Arboretum site, "the ancient Chinese were the first to miniaturize trees for ornamental purposes, around A.D. 200. Later, the Japanese, who used it to create beautiful gardens, adopted the bonsai technique. <BR><BR>Basically, the bonsai are outdoor plants and they flourish in cool and humid conditions, away from the bright sunlight for most parts of the day. In case you want to keep them indoors, you have to create the same cool and humid environment for them; otherwise they tend to wither away. <BR><BR>Podocarpus, Serissa and dwarf Pomegranate are suitable for bonsai along with some common plants, such as Schefflera, jade plant, Ficus benjamina, Bougainvillea, Citrus and Hibiscus. You can also make bonsai out of several woody herb species like bay, rosemary, myrtle and lavender.<BR><BR>How to care for your Japanese Bonsai Trees<BR><BR>All bonsai need a light and well-draining soil, but the actual soil can vary from plant to plant. So, the soil mixture suitable for growing bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) cannot be considered ideal for cultivating the southern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana). <BR><BR>A typical bonsai soil mixture comprises 1/3 part coarse sand to help the drainage of excess water; 1/3 part organic matter like ground sphagnum moss or pine or fir bark, which are capable to hold moisture and nutrients and 1/3 part a coarse, fired clay like Turface that also has the capacity to hold nutrients and moisture. You can adjust the proportions according to the needs of your trees. <BR><BR>You can select any suitable place, such as the terrace to create your traditional Japanese garden. Planning an outdoor Japanese garden is an intellectual pursuit that also requires artistic visualization and imagination. The key element of its lay out and planning is that you should not let the gardener's personality influence the garden. In this way, the viewers can visualize the garden in their own distinct ways. Another core element is simplicity in terms of the design and lay out. <BR><BR>Don't keep anything that competes with the décor of the garden or distracts the attention of the viewers away from the garden.<BR><BR>In your bonsai garden, you can plant clumps of Fargesia nitida, a pretty clumping bamboo. Japanese maples are also ideal and they can be transplanted into containers as well. In order to make your bonsai garden look more natural, you can put some moss over the soil beneath your bonsai tree that will look like real grass. To promote the growth of your bonsai, you have to rewire the bonsai every year and trim its center roots after one year. <BR><BR>Things to remember about Japanese Bonsai trees<BR><BR>When you see a bonsai, you must remember that it is a Japanese expression that refers to an artificially miniaturized potted plant or collection of plants, which are cultivated to recreate a natural scene. Generally, a twelve inches tall bonsai having an outcropping of strong roots can give the appearance of a very old tree. <BR><BR>Likewise, a symmetrical crown adorning the top of a straight trunk can provide the impression of a stately and ancient shade tree. The Japanese people possess centuries old dwarf trees and hand it over to the next generation as their living heirlooms. <BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>About the Author: Christopher Chase is a respected Bonsai enthusiast. He is the author of dozens of articles on the subject of Bonsai, subjects include Shohin Bonsai, Bonsai and Suiseki and Bonsai Art. </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-1388863997612829812?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-28566023966745132652008-06-20T00:49:00.001-04:002008-06-20T00:49:07.883-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Five Tips For Garden Sanctuaries</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Robin Mastro </font><br> <BR><BR>The design of your garden has an amazing affect on your family's health and well-being. Here is how you can create harmony in your garden—which is considered a living entity—and bring peace and happiness within your home. <BR><BR>Vastu Shastra is an environmental science written about some 7,000 – 10,000 years ago in India by rishis, or men of great wisdom. They observed the workings of Nature and recorded how different rays of the sun, the magnetic poles, the makeup of the land, soil, slope, structures, etc. affected all living things. It is the oldest recorded architectural treatise known to man and it is from this science that some of the world's most enduring structures have been created. <BR><BR>According to the science of Vastu Shastra, all five elements (earth, water, fire, air and space) need to be in harmony. When a seed is planted, it requires that all five elements be balanced for a seed to germinate, sprout and become a strong, healthy plant. The disproportion of any one element— whether it is the quality of the earth (soil ph), the amount and quality of water, wind (air), sun <BR>(fire), or the amount of space it is planted in—will inhibit its growth. In this way a wise gardener sets up a balanced environment for his plants to grow free from disease and stress. <BR><BR>Briefly, each area of your garden is associated with one of the five elements. The earth element is associated with the southwest area of your garden and creates a sustaining and grounding force. In the northeast, the water element is at home. This element allows plants to flourish. The fire element in the southeast supports disease-free plants. The northwest is related to the air element encouraging cross-pollination. The space element is associated with the central area of your garden, enhancing the flow of beneficial influences that nourishes the other elements. Positive magnetic energies coming from the north and the positive solar energies coming from the east promote harmony and balance. <BR><BR>Here are five great steps you can use to bring the five elements into balance within your garden and make it a sanctuary that is not only beautiful to look and wonderful to spend time in, but will actually have an empowering affect on the health and well-being of you and your family. <BR><BR>1. Build up the southwest area of your garden to produce the stabilizing force of the earth element. You can do this with a rock garden, tall trees and even a stone statue. This will help to collect and hold the positive solar and magnetic energies coming from the east and north. Since yellow is the color associated with the southwest, choose daffodils, roses or wisteria to accentuate this area. This is also a good place for a storage or tool shed. <BR><BR>2. Represent the water element by using low plantings in the northeast that will allow the flow of positive solar energy. Add a fountain or reflection pool or pond in this area to reflect this beneficial energy throughout the garden. Herbs, white pansies or geraniums can be used as accents. <BR><BR>3. Add a barbeque or a fire pit in the southeast as your fire element. Red symbolizes this direction so plant tulips, geraniums and dahlias here.<BR><BR>4. Use wind chimes to balance the air element in the northwest. Since blue is the color of this area, plant bluebells, forget-me-nots and iris to enhance the influences coming from this direction. <BR><BR>5. Represent the space element by an open area in the middle of you garden. It can either be a patio or grass. Finally, by keeping your garden neat and tidy you will be maintaining balance and attracting the positive influence of each of the directions. <BR><BR>A well-designed and tended garden, using the principles of Vastu Shastra, will benefit you and all the members of your family for years to come. By reconnecting with the natural balance inherent in the environment, you will encourage better personal health, improve the quality of relationships and enhance well-being.<BR><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Michael and Robin Mastro's synergistic approach successfully assists people in living in peace and harmony with themselves and others, and in creating balanced lives filled with unlimited possibilities. Visit us at <A href="http://www.VastuCreations.com" target=_blank>www.VastuCreations.com</A> <BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-2856602396674513265?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-77072655414580015952008-06-12T23:58:00.001-04:002008-06-12T23:58:06.282-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Gardening And Your Back</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Kim Standerline </font><br> Spring is in the air. Have you noticed?<BR><BR>The days are getting longer, the daffodils, hyacinths and other lovely flowers are blooming, the birds are twittering earlier in the morning. <BR><BR>Ahh I'm positively poetical.<BR><BR>Hmm...I guess you're feeling a bit puzzled, (What on earth is she on about probably springs to mind).<BR><BR>One word,<BR><BR>Gardening...<BR><BR>Question<BR><BR>Have you been sat lazing about all winter well wrapped in your woolly sweater watching the TV and studiously ignoring all those pathetic weeds in your flowerbeds? (I know I have)...<BR><BR>But the sun starts shining, the birds start singing, everything outside your window looks unbearably dreary, suddenly you're feeling energised and the pangs of guilt become to much to bear...<BR><BR>Out comes the spade and the barrow, you start digging with gusto and...<BR><BR>You can't move the next day (ouch)<BR><BR>Classic case of "Gardener's Back"<BR><BR>I've done it loads of times. <BR><BR>You have a couple of choices here, you can either let the weeds in your garden take over your life, or you can be sensible about how you approach the whole gardening thing.<BR><BR>Lets take a logical approach,<BR><BR>Does it really matter so much if you take a week to get your garden into a semblance of something approaching nice, Hey it's been choked in weeds all winter..<BR><BR>Why does it have to be done in those few measly allotted hours you gave yourself, because you're really risking a serious injury. <BR><BR>Be sensible and do it properly,(heck I sound like my mother here).<BR><BR>If you think about it logically, gardening is a form of exercise. <BR><BR>All athletes will tell you, you should never exercise without doing those warm ups first.<BR><BR>Are you warming up before straining all those muscles you haven't used for months? Of course you're not..<BR><BR>Without warm ups, tense muscles will crack and moan under the strain you put them under. <BR><BR>Word of advice..<BR><BR>Take it in bite sized pieces... do a small amount at a time... It's really surprising how much you can get done in just an hour a day. <BR><BR>Because thinking to yourself you'll just have another half hour, or you'll just finish that last bit, is absolutely fatal.<BR><BR>(And could be the bit that does your back irreparable harm).<BR><BR>Have you considered drawing up a plan of action for your gardening tasks and sticking to it.<BR><BR>Decide beforehand what you're going to do and acomplish for that session, (and remember to go easy on yourself, especially when you first start).<BR><BR>Do a bit at a time, Have a break (maybe a coffee) and then tackle the next bit. <BR><BR>Before you know it, you will have a garden good enough for Gardeners world, and you won't kill yourself in the process...<BR><BR>Hmm now where did I put that trowel?<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Kim is a Back Care Advisor working for a large Hospital Trust in the UK, <BR>She's passionatly interested in Back Care and can be found at <A href="http://www.backpain-free.com" target=_blank>www.backpain-free.com</A> and <A href="http://www.nursing-hints.com" target=_blank>www.nursing-hints.com</A> <BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-7707265541458001595?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-42367197267605298992008-06-05T23:54:00.001-04:002008-06-05T23:54:05.705-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Planning a Water Garden...</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Gordon Goh </font><br> A water garden is the area of your landscape that will provide you with relaxing sounds of the water, while adding to the overall details of your landscape. The water garden is a project that you must 'plan' for continued success. If you are lucky enough to have the room in your lawn for a water garden, you are already one step ahead of many gardeners! Let's talk a little about how to plan for your water garden. A few important factors about placement of a water garden that often are forgotten are:<BR><BR>Do you have children in the neighborhood? If you have or live near children, you will want to keep your water garden in an area that will be close to your home. You will want to be able to see what is 'going on' by the water. Children are curious and they love water! Being able to see your water garden will save you worry later after the creation of your water garden even if the children are in the yard.<BR><BR>Do you have a natural spring in your lawn area? When planning a waterfall in the water garden, the use of a natural spring or water source is going to make the continued success of your water garden much easier. A water garden is possible with a waterfall even if you do not have a natural spring or water source, but it is a little more 'work' to create that special effect. You can find more information about this in another article on this site.<BR><BR>The lay of your land is important. While we will discuss this in other articles as well, planning your water garden around the lay of your land is important. If you are lucky enough to have a flat lawn, you can plan your water garden in various areas. The landscape that includes hills and slopes are a little tricky but using the slope in your lawn, you can create the water garden that takes care of that little 'wet patch' at the bottom of the yard!<BR><BR>Most water gardens are an addition or extension of the natural landscape. To encourage and invite your guests to the water garden for picnics, for chats, and for just sitting in pleasure: Plan the water garden so it's visible from the walkway to your home. The water garden that your visitors and guests see while entering your home adds value to your home and to your conversation!<BR><BR>In planning your water garden, use a sheet of paper to write down what you want to gain from your water garden. Start your list by using personal reasons, value reasoning, enhancing, or changing the overall look of your landscape. Alternately, you may simply want a place for solitude. These are the desires you'll write on your list. From this list, you can better plan 'where' your water garden will suit you and your ideas.<BR><BR>Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website Simply Flower Garden offering quality useful tips for flower garden lovers.<BR><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website content of <A href="http://www.simplyflowergarden.info" target=_blank>http://www.simplyflowergarden.info</A> " target=_blank>Flower | Garden Tips offering quality useful tips for <A href="http://motiveway.goldeye.info/Business-Motivational-Poster.htm" target=_blank>http://motiveway.goldeye.info/Business-Motivational-Poster.htm</A> " target=_blank>flower gardening </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-4236719726760529899?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-63443091261698076052008-05-29T23:47:00.001-04:002008-05-29T23:47:09.597-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Japanese Garden of Monaco</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Laura Ciocan </font><br> Have you ever seen an authentic Japanese garden? Well, I had the chance of seeing the one in Monaco and was really impressed too. Wanna taste a little Japanese culture? Stepping on this ground is escaping from the real world into a fantasy land. You suddenly find yourself in a typical Japanese natural setting like the ones you see in marvelous paintings. The only thing that's missing is the fog. Instead, the Mediterranean sun reveals all minute details in a warm light.<BR><BR>With Japanese gardens, what you see is not all; the surface of things is the mere reflection of the psyche of an ancient culture. One really needs to be literally "cultured" in this direction to best appreciate the value of this art. (which I myself was not at the time of my visit! And it was a pitty as I did not know what to look for and what to analyse better!) One can speak of a philosophy of gardening coming from the ancient Japan. Japanese gardening is an art fetched beyond the arrangements of vegetation, water and stone but is full of symbols:<BR><BR>* Koko - the veneration of timeless age;<BR><BR>* Shizen - the avoidance of the artificial;<BR><BR>* Yugen, or darkness - imply the mysterious or subtle;<BR><BR>* Miegakure - the avoidance of full expression<BR><BR><BR>The perception of nature is different in the Japanese culture from that of the European one. Instead of viewing nature only as something to be subjugated and transformed according to men-made ideal of beauty, Japanese developed a close connection to nature, considering it sacred, an ally in putting food on the table and an ideal of beauty in itself. That is why the Japanese gardens are the synthesis of nature in miniature instead of correction of nature as with European gardens.<BR><BR>Actually, the design of Japanese gardens come from the Chinese model. The history goes back in time, around year 100BC when the emperor of China, Wu Di of the Han Dynasty established a garden that contained three small islands, mimicking the Isles of the Immortals, who were the principle Taoist deities. An envoy of Japan saw it and took the idea to Japan, improving the existing Japanese practices.<BR><BR>The Japanese Garden of Monaco was designed at the request of Prince Rainier who thus fulfilled a desire Princesse Grace had expressed during her life-time. The garden was designed by the landscape-architect Yasuo Beppu, has 7,000 square meter, its construction took 3 years and it was inaugurated in 1994.<BR><BR>There are some specific elements:<BR><BR>* The wall (Heï) with an intermediary bamboo fencing (Takégaki) that stands for fragility and simplicity.<BR><BR>* The main gate (Shô-mon)<BR><BR>* The stone lanterns (Tôrô) - each having special different characteristics;<BR><BR>* The lake (Iké) with large swishing gold fish.<BR><BR>* The stone fountain (Fusen-Ishi)<BR><BR>* The covered terrace (Kyukeïjo)<BR><BR>* The islands (Shima) - represent two long-living animals - the tortoise and the crane, symbols of complementarity expressed<BR><BR>* The Tea house (Chatshitsu)- named the Garden of Grace (Ga-én)<BR><BR>* The dry landscape (Karésansui) - quintessence of Cosmos<BR><BR>* The Belvedere (Azumaya) - a house on a hill allowing view in all four corners<BR><BR>* The waterfall (Taki) - symbolizes the strength of Man and Nature, contrasting to the horizontality of the lake.<BR><BR>* The arched red bridge (Taïkobashi) - is red, the color of happiness and is narrow so as to make access to the divine island more difficult.<BR><BR><BR>There are olive trees, cherry trees, conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias, a varried, rich vegetation of Mediterranean, South American, Australia, African and Asian origin, pruned according to the Japanese tradition.<BR><BR>Walking in the crowded Monaco, with all its stone, steel and glass, you can find in the Japanese Garden a peaceful, green oasis where even the great number of tourists passes unnoticed, wandering on the winding paths, through the thicket of the garden.<BR><BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P><B>Laura Ciocan</B> writes for <B><A href="http://www.ilovemontecarlo.com/" target=_blank>http://www.ilovemontecarlo.com/</A> </B>where you can find all you want to know about <A href="http://www.ilovemontecarlo.com/learn" target=_blank>http://www.ilovemontecarlo.com/learn</A> living in Monaco <BR><BR>Please feel free to use this article in your Newsletter or on your website. If you use this article, please include the resource box and send a brief message to let me know where it appeared.<BR>Contact:<B><A href="mailto:lauracio@gmail.com">lauracio@gmail.com</A> </B><BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-6344309126169807605?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-29392886860667384172008-05-22T23:07:00.001-04:002008-05-22T23:07:19.563-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Selecting the Proper Pump for your Backyard Water Garden Feature</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Gerry Fung </font><br> Whether you have a preformed or a liner pond, a pond pump is a paramount component of any water feature. Stagnant bodies of water attract mosquito infestations, which are a nuisance, and also undesirable, due to the recent outbreaks of the West Nile virus. Therefore, it is paramount that you utilize a pond pump that circulates your body of water.<BR><BR>Pumps are available in both submersible and external (out-of-pond) models. For the smaller pond (up to 1000 gallons of water), a submersible pump is the more economical and practical option. Submersible pumps can be placed directly in the pond and require relatively little installation. They are free of distracting noise, and for smaller ponds, can easily be utilized to drain your pond (if you hook up a hose to the output flow). <BR><BR>In the old days, the main disadvantage of submersible pumps was that the pump seal could rupture and release oil coolant into the water. However, this is not the case nowadays, because newer pumps are magnetic-driven, and no longer require coolant. "Mag-driven" pumps are slightly more expensive, but they have the added advantage of consuming less electricity.<BR><BR>Pumps are sized by gallons per hour (GPH) output at one foot of lift or height. Manufacturers usually offer charts that break down the power of each size pump according to incremental heights of one foot. It is recommended that you circulate your body of water at least once every 2 hours. Therefore you will need to size your pump to ensure that it has half the GPH rating as the volume of your pond in gallons. For example, if you have a 1000 gallon water feature, you will require at least a 500 GPH pump. <BR><BR>Calculating the proper pump for waterfalls is a bit trickier, because you must estimate your waterfall's height. To do so, you must measure the vertical height from the top of your pump to the top of your waterfall. In addition, you must add another foot of height or lift for every 10 feet of hosing you will be using (this will allow for loss of volume from resistance within the hose). To calculate the required pump GPH, a general rule of thumb is that each inch of width of the channel will require an extra 100 GPH. For example, if your stream or waterfall spillway will be 10 inches wide, you will need a pump that produces an excess flow of 1000 GPH at your waterfall's height.<BR><BR>If you plan on having fish, your water circulation demands will be drastically increased. Fish rely on the oxygen in the water to survive, hence a proper pump for a fish pond must ensure that extra oxygen is both introduced into the pond, and distributed throughout the pond. The general rule of thumb is that you must double your pump GPH if you plan on raising fish. An example of a pump that would be appropriate for fish is GardenSuperMart's UltraFlo line of pumps. These pumps have oxygen intake valves and an unique air/water air mix system which effectively increases the oxygen concentration in your pond.<BR><BR>The advantage of GardenSuperMart's low-maintenance, magnetic-driven UltraFlo pump kits is that they contain a sealed unit with a large enclosure that prevents debris from clogging the water intake. The UltraFlo line of pumps starts at 200 GPH, and increase up to 660 GPH. All UltraFlo pump kits come complete with a telescopic riser and diverter and 3 fountain heads.<BR><BR>If you require a more powerful pump, GardenSuperMart also has a SuperFlo line of pump kits that can provide up to 1585 GPH. All SuperFlo kits come complete with a telescopic riser and diverter, 4 fountain heads, and a sponge pre-filter. An optional SuperFlo Mechancial and Biological filter can also be added to the pump to provide additional water filtration for your fish.<BR><BR>Both the SuperFlo and the UltraFlo pumps can be purchased online at GardenSuperMart's store, <A href="http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond" target=_blank>http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond</A> <A href="http://www.buypond.com" target=_blank>www.buypond.com</A> . In late May 2005, GardenSuperMart will also introduce a new line of MaxFlo waterfall pumps that can provide up to 2780 GPH of pumping power. Please stay tuned for further news and details. <BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Gerry Fung is the Vice President of <A href="http://www.gardensupermart.com" target=_blank>http://www.gardensupermart.com</A> GardenSuperMart . More information about their pond pump lines can be obtained at <A href="http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094.2.html" target=_blank>http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094.2.html</A> <A href="http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094.2.html" target=_blank>http://www.gardensupermart.com/buypond/c230094.2.html</A> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-2939288686066738417?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-16691780800244988052008-05-15T17:06:00.001-04:002008-05-15T17:06:17.550-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Blue Wild Flowers for Your Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Kathy Burns-Millyard </font><br> <BR>Planting wild flowers in your garden, or simply scattering wild flower seeds around an area of your yard are both ways to take advantage of Mother Nature's treasured gifts. Wild flowers are carefree, colorful, and tend to attract bees, butterflys and birds. So planting wild flowers not only gives you an easy maintenance flower garden... it also promises to be a constant source of interesting activity throughout the year.<BR><BR>The following wild flowers are blue to purple in color, and some say this is a favorite color of bees.<BR><BR>VIRGINIA or COMMON DAY-FLOWER (Commelina Virginica) - Spiderwort family<BR>The Day Flower has blue, one inch wide or smaller flowers which tend to be irregular. The flowers are grouped at the end of the stem, and are upheld by long leaf-like bracts. The leaves are lance-shaped and 3-5 inches long. The upper leaves form like a hood of sorts about the flower. These wild flowers prefer moist, shady ground and flower from June through September.<BR><BR>The day flower tends to open in the morning and looking somewhat "alert". In the afternoon, or after the bees have visited and fertilized it, the petals roll up and quickly wilt into a wet, shapeless mass which will leave a sticky blue fluid on your fingers if you touch it.<BR><BR>SPIDERWORT; WIDOW'S or JOB'S TEARS (Tradescantia Virginiana) - Spiderwort family<BR>The Spiderwort's flowers are purplish blue in color but on rare occasion they can be white. There's usually several flowers about 1-2 inches wide, and usually contain clusters of drooping buds between long, blade-like bracts at the end. This one can grow from 8-36 inches tall, and has long blade-like leaves. It prefers rich, moist woods, thickets or garden space, and it flowers from May through August.<BR><BR>Like its relative the dayflower, the spiderwort opens for part of a day only. In the morning it is wide awake and pert; early in the afternoon its petals have begun to retreat and wither away. New blooms appear each day throughout the season though.<BR><BR>WILD HYACINTH, SCILLA or SQUILL. QUAMASH (Quamasia kyacinthina; Scilla Fraseri of Gray) - Lily family<BR><BR>The Wild Hyacinth tends to produce many pale violet blue flowers, though once in awhile they can be white. There tend to be equal groups of 6 flowers on long, oblong-shaped branches. The plant tends to grow 1-2 feet tall, and has grass-like, short leaves. These wild flowers prefer meadows, prairies and stream banks, and they bloom from April to May.<BR><BR>These wild flowers tend to be low maintenance, and they propogate on their own, without being invasive. In addition to attracting bees, the Wild Hyacinth also tends to attract ants, wasps, flies, butterflies, and beetles.<BR><BR>Whether you prefer to start your flowers from seeds or potted starter plants, wild flowers are a wonderful addition to any type of garden. Creating a stand alone wild flower garden is also a fantastic way to make a great, naturalized impression in large or unused areas of your landscape.<BR><BR>Watch for future articles where I'll introduce you to many other wild flowers in a variety of other colors too!<BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>© 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard, The Garden Source Network - <A href="http://www.garden-source.com" target=_blank>http://www.garden-source.com</A> <A href="http://www.garden-source.com" target=_blank>http://www.garden-source.com</A> - A premier online publication featuring gardening articles, tips, advice, resources, shopping and supplies. This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.<BR></P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-1669178080024498805?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-2663662613050462382008-05-13T15:27:00.002-04:002008-05-13T15:29:04.042-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Choosing the Right Roses for your Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Kathy Burns-Millyard </font><br> <BR>There are literally hundreds of types of roses that you can grow in your garden. With such a selection to choose from, it can be extremely difficult to choose the rose that's right for you. To make this task a bit easier, We've outlined a few important factors you should consider, and explained some of the different types of roses to aid in your search.<BR><BR>Tips on Choosing Roses<BR><BR>1. Color may seem trivial at first glance, but it's usually an important factor to those that want to grow roses. Usually it is simply a matter of personal preference, but you may want to try creating a complimentary color palette for your rose garden.<BR><BR>2. The final growth height of a rose should be considered as it would be unattractive to grow roses that are higher than the area of the garden that it grows in. Some roses can grow to be as high as 20 feet.<BR><BR>3. If you live in an area that is prone to cold winters, you would certainly want a rose that could survive during the off season.<BR><BR>4. If certain fragrances invoke an allergic reaction, you'll want to plant roses that have a softer fragrance than the others.<BR><BR>5. It's smart gardening to learn what the advantages and disadvantages would be if you were to choose certain roses over others.<BR><BR>6. You will want to consider the size of your garden space, so that you can ensure proper exposure to the air and other elements as well.<BR><BR>7. If you are hoping to make your roses into bouquets, you will want to know if they can be cut. Hybrid teas can. Some roses will fall apart at the petals if they are cut.<BR><BR>8. You should also consider what other types of flowers or plants you intend on adding to the rose's environment. You want to add plants and flowers that will not create a damaging environment to your rose's ecosystem.<BR><BR>Some Common Types of Roses<BR><BR>After you get a sense of the type of roses that you would like to plant, you'll naturally want to know which types of roses best fit with your planting ideas. There are too many varieties of roses to list here, but this list covers some of the most popular. You should consult your nearest garden center for advice on whether your choice is fitting to your garden's abilities.<BR><BR>Landscape roses - Landscape roses are great for the novice gardener. They are disease resistant, and require a little bit less maintenance. Hybrid teas are not good for the novice.<BR><BR>Climbing Roses - These roses are different from the regular roses that are planted as they are trained to grow upward like vines. Most people like to use these for trellises, or buildings. Some of them are hybrid teas, wichuraine, and large flowered climbers. They are a beautiful addition to the look of one's house.<BR><BR>Shrub Roses - Shrub roses like the beautiful rugosa are both long blooming, and disease resistant. These are also great for the novice planter. They are gorgeous even when they are not in bloom because the foliage is so pretty.<BR><BR>Old Garden Roses - These roses are not very good for those with severe allergies to strong fragrances because they have a strong fragrant odor. However, they are disease resistant and continue to bloom for months at a time.<BR><BR>The Modern Rose - These are very special roses because they are the result of cross breeding the hybrid tea with the polyanthus. They are also referred to as Floribunda. They are a beautiful combination of the best those two flowers have to offer. They are long blooming, fragrant, and they are great for cutting.<BR><BR>Miniature Roses - Miniature roses are exactly what they sound like. They have all of the fragrance and beauty of a regular rose, but they have smaller blooms. These particular roses are great for indoor planting. <BR><BR>While note all inclusive, this article should be a great help in getting you started on the way to having your very own, gorgeous rose garden.<BR><BR>© 2004, Kathy Burns-Millyard and Garden-Source.com<BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>This article is provided courtesy of <A href="http://www.Garden-Source.com" target=_blank>http://www.Garden-Source.com</A> <A href="http://www.Garden-Source.com" target=_blank>http://www.Garden-Source.com</A> - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-266366261305046238?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-64366290816198215222008-05-13T15:27:00.001-04:002008-05-13T15:27:15.585-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Choosing the Right Roses for your Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Kathy Burns-Millyard </font><br> <BR>There are literally hundreds of types of roses that you can grow in your garden. With such a selection to choose from, it can be extremely difficult to choose the rose that's right for you. To make this task a bit easier, We've outlined a few important factors you should consider, and explained some of the different types of roses to aid in your search.<BR><BR>Tips on Choosing Roses<BR><BR>1. Color may seem trivial at first glance, but it's usually an important factor to those that want to grow roses. Usually it is simply a matter of personal preference, but you may want to try creating a complimentary color palette for your rose garden.<BR><BR>2. The final growth height of a rose should be considered as it would be unattractive to grow roses that are higher than the area of the garden that it grows in. Some roses can grow to be as high as 20 feet.<BR><BR>3. If you live in an area that is prone to cold winters, you would certainly want a rose that could survive during the off season.<BR><BR>4. If certain fragrances invoke an allergic reaction, you'll want to plant roses that have a softer fragrance than the others.<BR><BR>5. It's smart gardening to learn what the advantages and disadvantages would be if you were to choose certain roses over others.<BR><BR>6. You will want to consider the size of your garden space, so that you can ensure proper exposure to the air and other elements as well.<BR><BR>7. If you are hoping to make your roses into bouquets, you will want to know if they can be cut. Hybrid teas can. Some roses will fall apart at the petals if they are cut.<BR><BR>8. You should also consider what other types of flowers or plants you intend on adding to the rose's environment. You want to add plants and flowers that will not create a damaging environment to your rose's ecosystem.<BR><BR>Some Common Types of Roses<BR><BR>After you get a sense of the type of roses that you would like to plant, you'll naturally want to know which types of roses best fit with your planting ideas. There are too many varieties of roses to list here, but this list covers some of the most popular. You should consult your nearest garden center for advice on whether your choice is fitting to your garden's abilities.<BR><BR>Landscape roses - Landscape roses are great for the novice gardener. They are disease resistant, and require a little bit less maintenance. Hybrid teas are not good for the novice.<BR><BR>Climbing Roses - These roses are different from the regular roses that are planted as they are trained to grow upward like vines. Most people like to use these for trellises, or buildings. Some of them are hybrid teas, wichuraine, and large flowered climbers. They are a beautiful addition to the look of one's house.<BR><BR>Shrub Roses - Shrub roses like the beautiful rugosa are both long blooming, and disease resistant. These are also great for the novice planter. They are gorgeous even when they are not in bloom because the foliage is so pretty.<BR><BR>Old Garden Roses - These roses are not very good for those with severe allergies to strong fragrances because they have a strong fragrant odor. However, they are disease resistant and continue to bloom for months at a time.<BR><BR>The Modern Rose - These are very special roses because they are the result of cross breeding the hybrid tea with the polyanthus. They are also referred to as Floribunda. They are a beautiful combination of the best those two flowers have to offer. They are long blooming, fragrant, and they are great for cutting.<BR><BR>Miniature Roses - Miniature roses are exactly what they sound like. They have all of the fragrance and beauty of a regular rose, but they have smaller blooms. These particular roses are great for indoor planting. <BR><BR>While note all inclusive, this article should be a great help in getting you started on the way to having your very own, gorgeous rose garden.<BR><BR>© 2004, Kathy Burns-Millyard and Garden-Source.com<BR><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>This article is provided courtesy of <A href="http://www.Garden-Source.com" target=_blank>http://www.Garden-Source.com</A> <A href="http://www.Garden-Source.com" target=_blank>http://www.Garden-Source.com</A> - You may freely reprint this article on your website or in your newsletter provided this courtesy notice and the author name and URL remain intact.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-6436629081619821522?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-39042366834383874282008-05-12T14:36:00.002-04:002008-05-12T14:38:04.581-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Gardening During Hard Times or Emergencies - You Can Feed Yourself!</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Jim Kennard </font><br> <P>Do you ever worry about always having to rely on getting seeds and fertilizer from the store? What would you do in a survival situation, if you could not go to a store to purchase these things?</P><P>Let's compare it to your food supply. What would you do about your store-purchased food? Many wise people buy more than they need of food items that store well, and create a "year's supply" of the essentials in their basement or other cool, dry place. This is the biblical answer. As you may remember, Joseph in Egypt saved grain for 7 years and then fed the whole Egyptian nation, as well as his own family and others, during the next 7 years of famine.</P><P>The same approach will work even better for gardening – with both seeds and fertilizers. For about $25 you can buy the triple-sealed Garden In A Can from Mountain Valley Seeds, with enough non-hybrid seeds to grow a 1/2-acre garden! If these are stored in a cool dry place they will remain viable for a very long time. The website is <A href="http://www.mvseeds.com" target=_blank>www.mvseeds.com</A> , and I highly recommend you get a can, or the smaller Garden in a Pouch for about $12.</P><P>And if natural mineral fertilizers are kept dry, they will store indefinitely while still maintaining their potency. Therefore I suggest you also buy and store enough Pre-Plant Mix and Weekly Feed to grow at least one year's garden. The formulas for mixing your own are in the Learn section of the Food For Everyone Foundation's website at <A href="http://www.growfood.com." target=_blank>www.growfood.com.</A> </P><P>A rule of thumb for how much fertilizer you would need to store, in order to have your year's supply, is 6# of Pre-Plant and 12# of Weekly Feed per 30' soil-bed. Even though you will only feed some crops 4 or 5 times, remember that if you are really living out of your garden, you will be growing two or three crops, and doing it from March or April, right up until frost in October. Therefore, see the following chart for suggestions on how much to store, depending on the size of your garden.</P><P>GARDEN SIZE PRE-PLANT MIX WEEKLY FEED</P><P>20' X 30' (4 soil-beds) 25# 50#</P><P>40' X 65' (16 soil-beds) 100# 200#</P><P>50' X 100' (30 soil-beds) 200# 400#</P><P>Now, what can you do if the emergency goes beyond a year, and you've used up all your fertilizer? First off, don't expect the same quantity of production as you obtained with balanced mineral nutrients, but you can grow a healthy garden using manure tea. Here's how.</P><P>Get a large burlap bag and a 55-gallon barrel. Find cow or horse manure (chicken or turkey is twice as hot, so less will be needed), and fill the bag 2/3's full. Place the bag in the barrel and fill it with water. Let the manure soak or "steep" for 24 hours, then use the "tea" to water your vegetable plants. Replace the bag of manure in the barrel and let steep for 48 hours. Again, water with the tea, then dump the spent manure out and till into an unused portion of the garden. It has very little nutrient value, but can improve your soil tilth. Remember to plant a little further apart when doing this, because plants will be competing for less available nutrition. And every watering should be with the manure tea for your plants to thrive. You should expect to grow a smaller garden, and spend some time finding manure and hand-watering.</P><P>If manure just isn't available, save your kitchen scraps and human waste. Many countries do it all the time, so it's not the end of the world. And all clean, healthy plant residue should be saved and properly composted for re-use in the garden - again preferably as manure tea.</P><P>By the way, even 4 soil-beds, when properly worked and cared for, especially if combined with good seedling production, could produce a large amount of food. As an example, if only one crop was grown, you could produce 2,000# or more of tomatoes, or even cabbage - if you grew 3 crops. So is this approach cost effective? You do the math. Suppose you invest $50 in your year's supply of seeds and fertilizers. What will 2,000 pounds of vegetables be worth to your family during hard times? Think of Joseph in Egypt!</P><P>Jim Kennard</P><P>James B. (Jim) Kennard, the President of Food For Everyone Foundation, has a wealth of leadership, financial, business, teaching, and gardening training and experience upon which to draw in helping the Foundation to achieve its goals. He is a retired (CPA), practicing as managing partner in a Salt Lake City firm since 1972, and has also owned and successfully managed several different businesses, including hotels, shopping centers, apartments, and retail establishments during the past twenty five years.</P><P>Jim has been a Mittleider gardener for the past twenty-eight years, he is a Master Mittleider Gardening Instructor, and has taught classes and worked one-on-one with Dr. Jacob Mittleider on several gardening projects in the USA and abroad, in addition to conducting projects himself in Armenia, Madagascar, and Turkey. He grows a demonstration garden at Utah's Hogle Zoo, and assists gardeners around the world on the Foundation's website and the free Gardening Group. <A href="http://www.foodforeveryone.org" target=_blank>http://www.foodforeveryone.org</A> " <A href="http://www.foodforeveryone.org" target=_blank>http://www.foodforeveryone.org</A> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-3904236683438387428?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-80643218069193421622008-05-12T14:36:00.001-04:002008-05-12T14:36:17.669-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Gardening During Hard Times or Emergencies - You Can Feed Yourself!</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Jim Kennard </font><br> <P>Do you ever worry about always having to rely on getting seeds and fertilizer from the store? What would you do in a survival situation, if you could not go to a store to purchase these things?</P><P>Let's compare it to your food supply. What would you do about your store-purchased food? Many wise people buy more than they need of food items that store well, and create a "year's supply" of the essentials in their basement or other cool, dry place. This is the biblical answer. As you may remember, Joseph in Egypt saved grain for 7 years and then fed the whole Egyptian nation, as well as his own family and others, during the next 7 years of famine.</P><P>The same approach will work even better for gardening – with both seeds and fertilizers. For about $25 you can buy the triple-sealed Garden In A Can from Mountain Valley Seeds, with enough non-hybrid seeds to grow a 1/2-acre garden! If these are stored in a cool dry place they will remain viable for a very long time. The website is <A href="http://www.mvseeds.com" target=_blank>www.mvseeds.com</A> , and I highly recommend you get a can, or the smaller Garden in a Pouch for about $12.</P><P>And if natural mineral fertilizers are kept dry, they will store indefinitely while still maintaining their potency. Therefore I suggest you also buy and store enough Pre-Plant Mix and Weekly Feed to grow at least one year's garden. The formulas for mixing your own are in the Learn section of the Food For Everyone Foundation's website at <A href="http://www.growfood.com." target=_blank>www.growfood.com.</A> </P><P>A rule of thumb for how much fertilizer you would need to store, in order to have your year's supply, is 6# of Pre-Plant and 12# of Weekly Feed per 30' soil-bed. Even though you will only feed some crops 4 or 5 times, remember that if you are really living out of your garden, you will be growing two or three crops, and doing it from March or April, right up until frost in October. Therefore, see the following chart for suggestions on how much to store, depending on the size of your garden.</P><P>GARDEN SIZE PRE-PLANT MIX WEEKLY FEED</P><P>20' X 30' (4 soil-beds) 25# 50#</P><P>40' X 65' (16 soil-beds) 100# 200#</P><P>50' X 100' (30 soil-beds) 200# 400#</P><P>Now, what can you do if the emergency goes beyond a year, and you've used up all your fertilizer? First off, don't expect the same quantity of production as you obtained with balanced mineral nutrients, but you can grow a healthy garden using manure tea. Here's how.</P><P>Get a large burlap bag and a 55-gallon barrel. Find cow or horse manure (chicken or turkey is twice as hot, so less will be needed), and fill the bag 2/3's full. Place the bag in the barrel and fill it with water. Let the manure soak or "steep" for 24 hours, then use the "tea" to water your vegetable plants. Replace the bag of manure in the barrel and let steep for 48 hours. Again, water with the tea, then dump the spent manure out and till into an unused portion of the garden. It has very little nutrient value, but can improve your soil tilth. Remember to plant a little further apart when doing this, because plants will be competing for less available nutrition. And every watering should be with the manure tea for your plants to thrive. You should expect to grow a smaller garden, and spend some time finding manure and hand-watering.</P><P>If manure just isn't available, save your kitchen scraps and human waste. Many countries do it all the time, so it's not the end of the world. And all clean, healthy plant residue should be saved and properly composted for re-use in the garden - again preferably as manure tea.</P><P>By the way, even 4 soil-beds, when properly worked and cared for, especially if combined with good seedling production, could produce a large amount of food. As an example, if only one crop was grown, you could produce 2,000# or more of tomatoes, or even cabbage - if you grew 3 crops. So is this approach cost effective? You do the math. Suppose you invest $50 in your year's supply of seeds and fertilizers. What will 2,000 pounds of vegetables be worth to your family during hard times? Think of Joseph in Egypt!</P><P>Jim Kennard</P><P>James B. (Jim) Kennard, the President of Food For Everyone Foundation, has a wealth of leadership, financial, business, teaching, and gardening training and experience upon which to draw in helping the Foundation to achieve its goals. He is a retired (CPA), practicing as managing partner in a Salt Lake City firm since 1972, and has also owned and successfully managed several different businesses, including hotels, shopping centers, apartments, and retail establishments during the past twenty five years.</P><P>Jim has been a Mittleider gardener for the past twenty-eight years, he is a Master Mittleider Gardening Instructor, and has taught classes and worked one-on-one with Dr. Jacob Mittleider on several gardening projects in the USA and abroad, in addition to conducting projects himself in Armenia, Madagascar, and Turkey. He grows a demonstration garden at Utah's Hogle Zoo, and assists gardeners around the world on the Foundation's website and the free Gardening Group. <A href="http://www.foodforeveryone.org" target=_blank>http://www.foodforeveryone.org</A> " <A href="http://www.foodforeveryone.org" target=_blank>http://www.foodforeveryone.org</A> </P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-8064321806919342162?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-57668894234334384472008-05-11T14:11:00.003-04:002008-05-11T14:11:15.096-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Organic Gardening In The Backyard – Fun, Healthy, and Easier Than You May Think</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> C.J. Gustafson </font><br> Organic gardening, which is sometimes thought of as something out of the 60s hippie culture, has been steadily growing in popularity over the years. Not only can you find entire aisles of organics at the local supermarket, the number of specialty stores dedicated to organically grown foods has increased dramatically. Part of this popularity is due to an increasing understanding of the dangers associated with synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. Growing organically generally means gardening without these potentially dangerous chemicals. Many backyard gardeners are turning to organic methods as they realize how easy and effective organic growing can be.<BR><BR>Part of the reason chemical pesticides and fertilizers are so widely used is because they work well. In deciding to use organic methods in your backyard garden, you first will need to accept the fact that you will likely have more pest damage and lower yields than if you were employing chemicals. Many people are willing to make this trade off in return for the opportunity to harvest chemical-free foods for themselves and their families.<BR><BR>There are several different approaches and techniques used in organic gardening. You may find that you are using some of them already. If you have selected cultivars that are resistant to pests or drought, you are involved in one form of organic gardening. If you put out a scarecrow or bars of hand soap to keep animals away, this too is organic gardening. Compost is an organic fertilizer. Organic techniques are around in many gardens already. By utilizing them more and moving away from chemicals, you can improve the environment and lead a healthier lifestyle.<BR><BR>There are different levels of organic gardening and different reasons why people choose organic methods. Some do it because they do not want to harm any animals, even aphids or cutworms. So they try to develop a system where they can cohabitate peacefully, keeping insects and other animals out when possible and removing them or learning to live with them when other options don't work.<BR><BR>Some people are not opposed to pest control and extermination but they don't want to add any more chemicals to the environment or to the food that they eat. Others go organic as a means of getting back to a more historic, natural, and even challenging way of gardening. You will need to decide which methods match your personal philosophies and reasons for going organic.<BR><BR>Pest control and fertilization are two of the key areas to focus on with organic gardening. In addition to using native, resistant plants, mulching, and practicing crop rotation, the use of other natural methods of pest control and of compost and manure as fertilizer can go a long way toward creating a more organic garden.<BR><BR>Pest Control<BR><BR>There are many ways that backyard gardeners can control insects and other pests without the use of synthetic chemicals.<BR><BR>- Use mesh row covers to keep insects off of plants. They need to be removed from squashes, melons, cucumbers, peppers and other plants that require or benefit from pollinations during flowering. <BR>- Collars placed around young plants will help prevent damage by cutworms. <BR>- Allow natural predators such as ladybugs and wasps to assist you in your efforts by planting vegetation that will attract them to your garden and avoiding pesticides that harm them as well. <BR>- Screens, cold frames and fences can help keep some insects and animals such as rabbits out of the garden. <BR>- Aphids can be removed from plants with a strong stream of water. Hand removing insects such as potato beetles can be effective in small gardens. <BR>- Weed your garden and turn the soil regularly to help reduce the growth of insects that like to nest in certain plant debris. <BR>- Learn to identify the egg clusters of harmful insects and remove them immediately <BR>- Use homemade insecticides such as garlic spray or other harmless pest inhibitors. <BR>- Try using non-invasive methods of pest control including soap bars, cuttings of human hair, or an alert dog in the yard. These techniques may or may not be effective, but are worth a try before resorting to chemicals. <BR>- Some home pesticides such as those that use rhubarb or tobacco plants can be very dangerous to humans and other mammals. Use caution and be sure you know what you're getting into before you begin. <BR><BR>Organic Fertilizers<BR><BR>Of course you want your plants to grow quickly and produce large yields. However, chemical fertilizers are potentially harmful to those who eat the plants and to the environment, especially if applied too heavily and allowed to run off into water supplies and habitat areas. Using organic fertilizers can decrease the problems associated with chemicals.<BR><BR>Manure is a natural, effective fertilizer if used properly. Not only does it improve soil structure, it provides the nutrients plants need to develop. Manure that is allowed to age and decompose before use is most effective. Pasteurized manure is less likely to include active weed seed or harmful bacteria. Do not apply too heavily. <BR><BR>Create and maintain a compost pile to use as fertilizer. Not only does it incorporate the use of natural organic material such as leaves, lawn clippings and household waste such as potato peels and carrot stems, it also provides a free source of fertilizer and reduces the amount of waste that is hauled to landfills. <BR><BR>If you choose to use chemical fertilizers, use sparingly and choose a slow release variety that is less likely to leech into vulnerable areas. <BR><BR>Companion planting, which is the practice of putting together two plants that seem to benefit each other, has been offered as a means of enhancing organic gardening practices. It is thought that plants such as nicotina and marigolds are natural pest deterrents. However, there is no firm research to support this as yet. Still, many gardeners have reported success with this method.<BR><BR>Additionally, planting vegetables with prickly vines, such as watermelon or squashes around the perimeter of vulnerable plants may help keep out rabbits and other animals that don't like the scratchy vines.<BR><BR>These days, many gardeners are looking for ways to reduce the use of chemicals and rely on more natural and inexpensive means of providing food for their tale and backyard growing enjoyment. Organic gardening techniques provide fun and healthy options.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>C.J. Gustafson is an amateur gardener and a professional photographer, providing valuable tips and advice about <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/garden-accessories.htm" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/garden-accessories.htm</A> garden accessories and other <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com</A> vegetable gardening topics. She would rather lose a few ears of corn than go without wildlife in her garden.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-5766889423433438447?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-38417515137470076992008-05-11T14:11:00.001-04:002008-05-11T14:11:14.492-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Organic Gardening In The Backyard – Fun, Healthy, and Easier Than You May Think</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> C.J. Gustafson </font><br> Organic gardening, which is sometimes thought of as something out of the 60s hippie culture, has been steadily growing in popularity over the years. Not only can you find entire aisles of organics at the local supermarket, the number of specialty stores dedicated to organically grown foods has increased dramatically. Part of this popularity is due to an increasing understanding of the dangers associated with synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. Growing organically generally means gardening without these potentially dangerous chemicals. Many backyard gardeners are turning to organic methods as they realize how easy and effective organic growing can be.<BR><BR>Part of the reason chemical pesticides and fertilizers are so widely used is because they work well. In deciding to use organic methods in your backyard garden, you first will need to accept the fact that you will likely have more pest damage and lower yields than if you were employing chemicals. Many people are willing to make this trade off in return for the opportunity to harvest chemical-free foods for themselves and their families.<BR><BR>There are several different approaches and techniques used in organic gardening. You may find that you are using some of them already. If you have selected cultivars that are resistant to pests or drought, you are involved in one form of organic gardening. If you put out a scarecrow or bars of hand soap to keep animals away, this too is organic gardening. Compost is an organic fertilizer. Organic techniques are around in many gardens already. By utilizing them more and moving away from chemicals, you can improve the environment and lead a healthier lifestyle.<BR><BR>There are different levels of organic gardening and different reasons why people choose organic methods. Some do it because they do not want to harm any animals, even aphids or cutworms. So they try to develop a system where they can cohabitate peacefully, keeping insects and other animals out when possible and removing them or learning to live with them when other options don't work.<BR><BR>Some people are not opposed to pest control and extermination but they don't want to add any more chemicals to the environment or to the food that they eat. Others go organic as a means of getting back to a more historic, natural, and even challenging way of gardening. You will need to decide which methods match your personal philosophies and reasons for going organic.<BR><BR>Pest control and fertilization are two of the key areas to focus on with organic gardening. In addition to using native, resistant plants, mulching, and practicing crop rotation, the use of other natural methods of pest control and of compost and manure as fertilizer can go a long way toward creating a more organic garden.<BR><BR>Pest Control<BR><BR>There are many ways that backyard gardeners can control insects and other pests without the use of synthetic chemicals.<BR><BR>- Use mesh row covers to keep insects off of plants. They need to be removed from squashes, melons, cucumbers, peppers and other plants that require or benefit from pollinations during flowering. <BR>- Collars placed around young plants will help prevent damage by cutworms. <BR>- Allow natural predators such as ladybugs and wasps to assist you in your efforts by planting vegetation that will attract them to your garden and avoiding pesticides that harm them as well. <BR>- Screens, cold frames and fences can help keep some insects and animals such as rabbits out of the garden. <BR>- Aphids can be removed from plants with a strong stream of water. Hand removing insects such as potato beetles can be effective in small gardens. <BR>- Weed your garden and turn the soil regularly to help reduce the growth of insects that like to nest in certain plant debris. <BR>- Learn to identify the egg clusters of harmful insects and remove them immediately <BR>- Use homemade insecticides such as garlic spray or other harmless pest inhibitors. <BR>- Try using non-invasive methods of pest control including soap bars, cuttings of human hair, or an alert dog in the yard. These techniques may or may not be effective, but are worth a try before resorting to chemicals. <BR>- Some home pesticides such as those that use rhubarb or tobacco plants can be very dangerous to humans and other mammals. Use caution and be sure you know what you're getting into before you begin. <BR><BR>Organic Fertilizers<BR><BR>Of course you want your plants to grow quickly and produce large yields. However, chemical fertilizers are potentially harmful to those who eat the plants and to the environment, especially if applied too heavily and allowed to run off into water supplies and habitat areas. Using organic fertilizers can decrease the problems associated with chemicals.<BR><BR>Manure is a natural, effective fertilizer if used properly. Not only does it improve soil structure, it provides the nutrients plants need to develop. Manure that is allowed to age and decompose before use is most effective. Pasteurized manure is less likely to include active weed seed or harmful bacteria. Do not apply too heavily. <BR><BR>Create and maintain a compost pile to use as fertilizer. Not only does it incorporate the use of natural organic material such as leaves, lawn clippings and household waste such as potato peels and carrot stems, it also provides a free source of fertilizer and reduces the amount of waste that is hauled to landfills. <BR><BR>If you choose to use chemical fertilizers, use sparingly and choose a slow release variety that is less likely to leech into vulnerable areas. <BR><BR>Companion planting, which is the practice of putting together two plants that seem to benefit each other, has been offered as a means of enhancing organic gardening practices. It is thought that plants such as nicotina and marigolds are natural pest deterrents. However, there is no firm research to support this as yet. Still, many gardeners have reported success with this method.<BR><BR>Additionally, planting vegetables with prickly vines, such as watermelon or squashes around the perimeter of vulnerable plants may help keep out rabbits and other animals that don't like the scratchy vines.<BR><BR>These days, many gardeners are looking for ways to reduce the use of chemicals and rely on more natural and inexpensive means of providing food for their tale and backyard growing enjoyment. Organic gardening techniques provide fun and healthy options.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>C.J. Gustafson is an amateur gardener and a professional photographer, providing valuable tips and advice about <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/garden-accessories.htm" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/garden-accessories.htm</A> garden accessories and other <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com</A> vegetable gardening topics. She would rather lose a few ears of corn than go without wildlife in her garden.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-3841751513747007699?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-54336925652781697962008-05-10T13:30:00.001-04:002008-05-10T13:30:14.799-04:00<html> <head> <title>Pest Control for the Vegetable Garden</title> <meta name="keywords" content="vegetable,plants,pests,rabbits,around,cucumber,control,using,garden,Sprays,wildlife,"> <meta name="rating" content="general"> <meta name="robots" content="index,follow"> </head> <body> Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Pest Control for the Vegetable Garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Karen Gross </font><br> One of the biggest challenges for vegetable gardeners is pest control. Anyone who has tried to keep a determined deer from eating the sweet corn knows how difficult it can be to deter animals, including insects, birds, rabbits and other wildlife from what, for them is a natural smorgasbord. From their perspective, there sit these wonderful veggies, all neat and weeded, almost as if you placed the plants there just for them. And so animals that we might otherwise enjoy can become a nuisance when it comes to the garden.<BR><BR>While avoiding wildlife is nearly impossible, chemical pesticides are often an effective means of deterring unwanted insects. However, many gardeners are uncomfortable using these harsh chemicals that can leak into water supplies and harm the environment. They also have concerns about using chemicals in the foods they feed their families. Here are some ideas for more organic pest control.<BR><BR>Crop Rotation<BR><BR>Practicing crop rotation every year in your vegetable garden and using companion plants will improve your soil and keep the pests under control. Most insects need time to become established in the soil. They may take two to three seasons to get their life cycle established. By practicing vegetable rotation and varying the type of plants grown in a particular area from year to year, you can avoid establishing plant specific types of garden pests. <BR><BR>Companion Planting<BR><BR>Certain varieties of garden plants are less attractive to pests. To deter rabbits, plant green onions amongst the lettuce plants. Plant several radish seeds in each hill of cucumber seeds to protect against the cucumber beetle. And when planted near each other, cucumbers will prevent raccoons from eating all the sweet corn, while the corn will reciprocate by preventing cucumber wilt.<BR><BR>Tomatoes like to be near chives, parsley, marigolds, garlic bulbs, nasturtiums, gooseberries, asparagus, and carrots. Tomatoes have a natural defense for pest control against the asparagus beetle and are also effective in keeping insects away from gooseberries. Carrots on the other hand are nearly every garden pest's friend. To control the carrot fly pest, plant onions, rosemary, or leeks nearby. Potatoes like to be planted near corn, horseradish, broccoli, cabbage and peas. Avoid planting by tomatoes, melon, and cucumbers.<BR><BR>Some vegetable gardeners plant pumpkins, squash, and cucumbers among the corn. The heavy growth and scratching of the vines and leaves helps keep rabbits, raccoons and other hungry critters at bay.<BR><BR>Tricks of the Trade<BR><BR>In addition to the planting methods described above, there are a number of non-pesticide options for organic pest control. Human or dog hair spread around the garden and hung from tree limbs acts as a good pest repellent, as do bars of soap hung from shepherds hooks or laid right in the soil. Deer do not like the smell of rotting eggs, so a mixture of 9 eggs with 2.5 gallons of water sprayed on ½ acre of crop will deter deer from entering the area, but the solution is diluted enough to avoid annoying humans.<BR><BR>Deer tend to be nervous and wary animals and can be scared off by annoying wind activated garden fixtures, plastic foil tape, scarecrows and whirligigs. Those that make noise, such squeaking, fluttering, or tinkling, work best. You may have to move these items around and rotate selection to keep the deer from getting use to them. Dogs are also a good source to keep watch over the garden and help scare off unwanted wildlife diners.<BR><BR>Tall fences (9 to 10 feet high) planted firmly in the ground are the best way to keep deer out of the vegetable garden. An inexpensive chicken-wire fence at least 24 inches high is often enough to keep those pesky rabbits out of your garden. Or a solution of cayenne pepper spray on the plants after a rain will sometimes deter rabbits from nibbling. Dried blood meal, which rabbits do not favor, can be sprinkled around when planting. The flavor will absorb though the root system of the vegetables, making them less appetizing. As an ongoing garden pest control, blood meal can be added to the soil every two weeks.<BR><BR>Live traps can be used for smaller rodents and rabbits. Bait the traps with a small amount of peanut butter, check them regularly, and transport any captured animals to another location immediately. Wear plastic gloves when handling live traps to prevent exposure to diseases carried by rodents and their parasites. Sticky insect traps and lures are another good pest control. Paint a thick piece of cardboard a bright color to attract the pest, and coat with a sticky substance such as Stick-em or Tanglefoot.<BR><BR>Electronic Pest Control<BR><BR>There are several electronic pest control devices available on the market as well, including electric fences, motion detecting water sprayers, and ultrasonic noisemakers that humans can't hear, but that garden pests find annoying. There are some units on the market that allow you to adjust the unit to the pest you are trying to drive away, without bothering the other critters you would like to have around.<BR><BR>Electric fencing can be installed around the perimeter of the yard. Some of these products claim to be strong enough to deter deer from entering the garden, but weak enough that they do not hurt family pets.<BR><BR>Moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not plants, which can make them a benefit to gardens, but as part of their natural activity, moles tunnel through the soil, causing damage to delicate plant roots. Battery or solar operated devices can be placed in the ground to help deter moles from burrowing in your garden. Place a few around the garden to prevent these pests from making paths in a new area.<BR><BR>Beneficial Bugs<BR><BR>Insects that prey upon garden pests are called beneficial insects. In nature these insects keep the garden pests under control. Encourage beneficial bugs by avoiding the use of commercial pesticides as these are usually non-discriminatory and will kill good and bad bugs alike. A small number of pests in the garden will encourage those beneficial bugs to stick around and multiply, making your work easier.<BR><BR>Ladybugs are natural enemies of aphids. Green lacewing in larvae stage feeds on thrips, mites, aphids, and various other insect eggs. Trichogramma wasps are effective against corn earworm, tomato hornworm, and loopers. The tiny wasps are also a parasite to many kinds of caterpillars.<BR><BR>Sprays and Soaps<BR><BR>There are many organic pest control sprays you can make at home, as well as purchasing less harmful insecticidal soaps. Many of the homemade sprays include ingredients such as garlic, onion, or cayenne pepper. A word of caution when using sprays intended to go directly on the plants. Never apply sprays in the heat of the afternoon sun. The water can heat up very quickly and cause brown spots to appear on the leaves.<BR><BR>Most gardeners have a connection with the earth and enjoy the wildlife and insects nature has provided…just not in the garden! For those who prefer to practice organic pest control, there are many options. They may not work as well as pesticides in some cases, but they are a lot less harmful and can even add fun and beauty to your garden.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Karen Gross is a professional gardener and design consultant. She provides valuable tips and advice about <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/seed-companies.htm" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/seed-companies.htm</A> seed companies , <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/container-gardening.htm" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com/container-gardening.htm</A> container gardening and other <A href="http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com" target=_blank>http://www.vegetable-gardening-4u.com</A> vegetable gardening topics.</P> ...<br></p> </body> </html> <BR><br> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-5433692565278169796?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-82981064389601801162008-05-09T13:02:00.001-04:002008-05-09T13:02:14.581-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Rose Gardening Challenges</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Ken Austin </font><br> <P><BR>Rose gardening can be a challenging exercise but you don't have to be an expert to grow roses. Roses are grown successfully in gardens in nearly every different type of climate and environmental condition. Coming in a rainbow of colors and thousands of different modern-day varieties, roses offer a wonderful array of choices to followers of this beloved rose gardening pastime.<BR></P><P><BR>Rose gardening is special, though there are numerous recipes for cultivating the perfect rose garden, with even just a few of the basics such as sunshine, water and fertilizer, a rose garden can thrive in any climate. By adapting the following rose gardening tips to your specific needs, you can maintain a lush and lively rose garden.<BR></P><P><BR><B>Before you plant </B><BR><BR>Be sure your roses will be in an optimum location where they will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight per day, preferably morning sunshine.<BR></P><P><BR>Provide your roses with ample space to grow by digging a hole that is at least two-feet wide and two-feet deep. Add potting soil or organic compost for nutrients.<BR></P><P><BR>Keep roses moist by watering diligently for several weeks once you have planted them. <BR></P><P><BR><B>Help your rose garden to flourish</B> <BR><BR>Monitor the pH levels in the soil as roses generally prosper at a pH of about 6.5.<BR></P><P><BR>Fertilize in the spring when roses begin to leaf out and continue regularly until just before the arrival of winter frosts.<BR></P><P><BR>Remove dead flower heads occasionally to instigate new bloom growth.<BR><P></P><BR>Prune your roses at least once per year. With new plants, prune after the first blooming period is over. For older plants, pruning after the winter will help to begin rejuvenation and new growth. In colder climates you may also want to prune just after the first frosts to prevent harsh winter damage. <BR><P></P><P><BR>And always remember, roses love lots of water and proper drainage.<BR></P><BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P><P>Ken Austin <BR><BR><A href="http://www.1stinroses.com" target=_blank>http://www.1stinroses.com</A> " target=_blank>Roses and Rose Gardening <BR><BR><A href="http://www.1stdiscountshopping.com" target=_blank>http://www.1stdiscountshopping.com</A> " target=_blank>Online Discount Shopping Guide <BR><BR></P><BR> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-8298106438960180116?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-70201020253013439572008-05-08T12:52:00.001-04:002008-05-08T12:52:18.706-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Decorating around the garden</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Melissa Cameron </font><br> <H1>Straight Talk On – Decorating Around the Garden</H1><BR><P>Do you live near a park? Most people do – there are so many around <BR>now. All levels of government recognize the value of a green <BR>environment. And, of course, if people know that government has provided <BR>them with lots of parks and trees, they'll get lots of votes. But the <BR>bottom line is – we have, in North America, some absolutely beautiful <BR>parks.</P><BR><P>Some of the most beautiful parks are natural areas, untouched by man, <BR>with lots of trees and plants flourishing in their natural environment. For example, New York's Central Park is a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, even though it's right in the middle of the city. In California, there's Redwood Park, with its statuesque redwood trees.In Vancouver, Canada, there's Stanley Park, another beautiful acreage of natural habitat, set right next to the city.</P><BR><P>And then there are the world-famous gardens, like Butchart Gardens in <BR>Victoria, British Columbia, the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, England, <BR>and the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in Cape Town. These displays of <BR>flowers literally take your breath away, their beauty is so stunning.</P><BR><P>But you don't have to go around the world to find a garden that takes <BR>your breath away. You can create your own park – your own place to go on <BR>sunny Saturday afternoons, complete with shady trees and cool summer <BR>breezes.You can create the best of parks right in your own backyard (or front yard, too, for that matter).</P><BR><P><B>Imagine your garden as a beautiful park</B></P><BR><P>Why do people go to parks? Most would probably say that they go <BR>to parks to relax. Think of the soothing feeling you get when you <BR>walk into a quiet forest, with their pine needle beds and their sweet <BR>scent of mature wood. Or perhaps the park you most like to visit is a <BR>garden of floral delights – roses, chrysanthemums, magnolias, and <BR>perhaps even orchids. These gardens are definitely places that whisk us <BR>away from the rush of your daily lives into what almost seems like <BR>another world. These are the gardens that are decked out in flowers, <BR>with <A href="http://www.decorweathervanes.com" target=_blank>http://www.decorweathervanes.com</A> " target=_blank>colorful garden decorations , statues, bridges, <A href="http://www.decorativewaterfountains.com/" target=_blank>http://www.decorativewaterfountains.com/</A> " target=_blank><B>fountains</B> <BR>– all the things that just call out to you saying, Come. Sit down. <BR>Relax.Breathe in the wonder of nature. Who could resist that call?</P><BR><P>But you don't need to go out to parks or gardens to find an <BR>environment so sweet. You only need to go as far as your own back <BR>yard.There's no reason why you can't create a garden of your own, just as good as any you'll find in your neighborhood, or in your tourist <BR>area. You can create your own garden. </P><BR><P>If you don't think you're creative enough, then there are lots of <BR>landscapers who can give you expert advice. They'll come and survey your <BR>yard, and present you with a number of plans that'll give you a <BR>wonderfully unique garden that'll make you the envy of the entire <BR>neighborhood – or maybe even the city. Landscapers are trained professionals. They can design and create a whole environment of beauty from your plain old yard. But whether you hire somebody, or do it yourself, the possibilities are endless. There are literally hundreds of ways you can beautify your garden. One unique way is with a <A href="http://www.decormailboxes.com" target=_blank>http://www.decormailboxes.com</A> " target=_blank>decorative mailbox and post in front of your home.</P><BR>You can create a garden as good as any park<BR><P>To come up with a wonderfully-landscaped garden, just sit back, close your eyes, and let your imagination run wild. Picture yourself sitting in your gazebo, the soft water of a gently-running fountain soothing your senses. You rise from your garden bench, and slowly wander over your little wooden bridge that crosses the babbling brook flowing through your garden. You stop here and there to admire the roses <BR>climbing the trellis, or smell the carnations crawling up the gazebo walls, perhaps picking one to take inside and put in a glass on your <BR>living-room table.</P><BR><P>What a wonderful feeling that is, isn't it? And this is something <BR>totally within your range of possibility. Think of all the things you could do to turn your yard into a park. You could put little statues at <BR>the entrance, beckoning everyone that passes by to stop and commune with <BR>nature a while. If you'd like to educate your friends as they enjoy your garden, you could put up garden signs, naming the more exotic plants and flowers you've brought in. Great conversation pieces!</P><BR><P>One of the more popular items in a creative garden these days is a <BR>pond. There are dozens of types of fish you can keep, depending on the <BR>size of the pond.You can fill it with lily pads, and floating <BR>plants. You can even put a fountain right in the pond. There's <BR>nothing like sitting in your yard with your eyes closed, listening to <BR>the soothing sound of gently-splashing water. It just seems to take you <BR>away from it all, doesn't it?</P><BR><P><B>Gardens can be functional, too</B></P><BR><P>The functional aspects of your garden can be esthetically-pleasing, <BR>too. You can now get decorative water sprinklers with a dragonfly or butterfly on top. And garden structures don't have to be big <BR>and ugly. You can get <A href="http://www.garden-n-storage-sheds.com/" target=_blank>http://www.garden-n-storage-sheds.com/</A> " target=_blank>garden sheds that look more like little guest houses, colorfully decorated with ivy and vines. Outside the shed, you could put a garden bench, inviting someone to sit and take a deep breath of fresh air, fueled by the fragrance of blooming flowers.</P><BR><P>You can do the same thing with your shade structures, too. You can <BR>strategically place canopies around your garden, creating little rest <BR>areas. Or you can get very creative with awnings, like attaching them to <BR>your gazebo, or a trellis, where they can be rolled out as the sun <BR>passes. Again, these are available in many attractive designs, <BR>fulfilling their function, while still providing a pleasant view. </P><BR><P>And how about a deck, to connect all that garden beauty to your <BR>house. A deck can also be very functional, while still remaining <BR>charming and stylish. And you can outfit your deck with some <BR>great-looking teak patio furniture, and protect yourself from the sun <BR>with a colorful awning that'll match your house. Again, it can look good <BR>and provide a purpose at the same time. </P><BR><P><B>What a picture you've painted</B></P><BR><P>That's quite a picture you've painted in your mind, isn't it? Well, <BR>it doesn't have to remain just a picture. You can turn it into reality <BR>any time you want. There are some wonderful <A href="http://www.decorweathervans.com/garden_gifts.html" target=_blank>http://www.decorweathervans.com/garden_gifts.html</A> " target=_blank>Garden Centers out there. There's sure to be one in your <BR>neighborhood. The people there are usually very knowledgeable and very <BR>helpful. They can guide you through all the phases of creating your own <BR>park in your own yard. They'll help you find the best garden <BR>decorations. They'll show you the best garden furniture. They'll help <BR>you choose the best garden structures.</P><BR><P>When you're developing your garden, take the time to let your <BR>creative juices flow. Come up with unique ideas that identify your <BR>garden with you. Duplicate your personality in your garden.<BR><P><H1>About the Author</H1><P>Melissa Cameron is a successful author<BR>providing moneysaving tips and common sense advice for consumers purchasing <BR><A href="http://www.only-area-rugs.com" target=_blank>http://www.only-area-rugs.com</A> " target=_blank>area rugs </B><BR>and <B><BR><A href="http://www.inflatable-boats-boat-accessories.com/inflatable-boats.html" target=_blank>http://www.inflatable-boats-boat-accessories.com/inflatable-boats.html</A> " <BR>target="_blankinflatable kayaks </B>. Her many articles offer valuable insight and straight talk on confusing topics.</P> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-7020102025301343957?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8044028964707499655.post-33535542574715732462008-05-07T12:45:00.001-04:002008-05-07T12:45:16.977-04:00Garden <br> <a href="">Back To Snippet</a> <BR> <a href="">Back To SITEMAP</a> <p><strong>Winter Gardening Fun</strong><br> <b>Author:</b><font color=brown> Ben J. Mann </font><br> <H1>"Exchanging Plants, Seeds and Flowers for Winter Gardening Fun"</H1><BR>Exciting New Winter Garden Fun!<BR><BR>GardenHere turns grey cold weather months into exciting home <A href="http://www.gardenhere.com/" target=_blank>http://www.gardenhere.com/</A> gardening fun. While other gardening enthusiast are waiting for Spring plant and seed catalogs, GardenHere members are busy growing landscape and flower starts in their window sills to <BR>trade with other home gardeners around the country.<P></P><BR> ...<br></p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8044028964707499655-3353554257471573246?l=gardensupplysite.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>The Bloggerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01667991053619308849noreply@blogger.com0